Heavy rain and strong SE winds turned Scott and Andrew back from the start of Curved Ridge this morning. It was thawing to the summit of Buachaille Etive Mor and the guys were already wet through so the suffering/reward balance tipped too far the wrong way and they headed back home. Had they stuck with it (for several hours) they would have had a pleasant walk back down from the summit in clearing weather and colder temperatures.

After two slightly warmer days it cooled again slightly during today to stabilise the old snow quite well. The back coires of Nevis Range would not have been fun to ski as the SE wind blew the fresh snow off the old crusty snow. The best skiing I had was on the Nid Ridge which had already filled in with quite a bit of fresh snow.

It was a rare glimpse of sunshine - it looks like we'll be back to stormy weather again for another wee while but there might well be the chance of some good climbing if you are in the right place at the right time. The crags are certainly very snowy and icy.

Happy New Year!

The Antarctic Migration

Greg Vernovage, Stephen Lutz (Denali 2013), Richard Dale (Denali 2014), and Melis Coady in a holding pattern waiting to fly to the Union Glacier, Antarctica.

Ever wonder where all the guides go after the Alaska mountaineering season? This time of year for many it is Antarctica. As the mountaineering season down there rolls into full swing Melis Coady sent us an update while waiting to fly. Besides Greg Vernovage she expects to run into other times AMS guides; Tim Hewitt, Todd Tumolo, Nate Opp, Todd Passey and Josh Hoeschen who have all traded an Alaska winter for the snowy Antarctic summer. Best wishes for a Happy New Year to everyone down south!

It was a soggy start this morning with drizzle and some wind on the walk up to the CIC Hut on Ben Nevis. Jack, Jackie and I were passed by a few teams on the way back down already with reports of soft snow and black rocks. This is what we saw too but a carried on up to climb some (rather wet) ice under Douglas Gap West Gully before traversing the gap. We got a wee taste of ice climbing and another adventure which was rewarded with a brilliant clearing of the clouds as we left Douglas Gap.

Meanwhile Donald and Geaspar also stuck with it and they found fantastic ice in Green Gully. The best gamblers were the two guys on Sickle who emerged from the mist just above the crux. The bottom pitches are not formed so they must have traversed in from Hadrian's Wall Direct but it was a bold move to head up there this morning!

Once the clouds had cleared completely we could see there is an amazing amount of ice on the crags for this time of year and since it only started to snow properly less than four weeks ago. The thaw did not strip the rime from the rocks above 1200m.

Jackie, Jack and I descended Douglas Gap East Gully and walked out after four great days of climbing. Looking back up at the crags it is clear there is lots more to do!

Creag Coire na Ciste.

The Comb.

Walking out tired but happy.

Glorious Morning

We're wrapping up 2010 in style! A blue moon for New Year's Eve brings night time skiing and bonfires. We have a stretch of clear weather to enjoy, with moderate temps (it's about 8 degrees above right now).
Check out this sunrise from just 10 minutes ago!













We'll be closed for the 4-day weekend, and back in the office on Monday.

Here is the availability update:
2010 AMS Availability Report:

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 2 spaces
May 3- 23: FULL
May 10-30: FULL (waitlist)
May 17-June 6: FULL (waitlist)
May 24-June 13: FULL (waitlist)
May 31-June 20: FULL (waitlist)
June 7-June 27: FULL (waitlist)
June 14-July 4: FULL (waitlist)
June 21-July 11: FULL (waitlist)

Denali, West Rib, 2010 Availability:
May 29-June 18: 3 spaces. Contact AMS for details!
Custom Dates Available

Denali, Upper West Rib, 2010 Availability:
June 5-June 25: 4 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Kahiltna Dome Expedition/Denali Prep Course, 2010 Availability:
June 3-12: 6 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Wilderness First Responder Course, 2010
March 6-14: 11 spaces available

WFR Re-certifications, 2010
March 20-22: 9 spaces available
March 27-29: 11 spaces available

Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Workshops, 2010
April 10-11: 5 spaces available
There are also sessions in July and August.

Alaska Range Mountaineering Courses, 6 days, 2010 Availability
April 16-21: 8 spaces
May 7-12: 9 spaces
June 4-9: 9 spaces
There are sessions in July, August & September.

Alaska Range Mountaineering Courses, 12 days, 2010 Availability
April 18-29: 7 spaces
May 14-25: 8 spaces
June 11-22: 8 spaces
There are sessions in July, August & September.

Things change quickly! Applications show up every day. If you are uncertain of your schedule but you are interested in participating, stay in touch with us: info@climbalaska.org or 907-733-1016. Leave us a message if we don't answer, we'll be back in the office on Monday.

Have a great weekend! I'll be back in 2010!
~Julia

Another cracking day in the Outdoor Capital of the UK but there were signs of the stable weather starting to break down. Jack, Jackie and I went to Stob Coire nan Lochan to climb NC Gully. The walk in is quite tricky with ice and compacted snow on the trail and the exposed step half way in focused the mind for a moment. The rocks were quite well rimed but the snow is still soft and not very helpful. NC Gully is a very atmospheric gully with steep walls and the spindrift pouring down the walls into the gully made it even more so. There were lots of climbs being tackled today including Scabbard Chimney, Spectre, Dorsal Arete, Chimney Route and something next to Raeburn's Route. SC Gully was abandoned due to lack of ice though.

Over on Ben Nevis Donald and Geaspar enjoyed a speedy ascent of Tower Ridge despite it being a bit awkward with soft snow on slippy rocks. They saw teams climbing Point Five Gully, Zero Gully and Hadrian's Wall Direct. These big ice classics are still thin but have reasonable ice. Green Gully and other grade III and IV routes are better well filled out.

Happy New Year from the Staff at AMS

Another week's gone by here at AMS headquarters and the festivities continue. New Year's Eve in Talkeetna is quite entertaining with live music in the bars and fireworks up and down Main Street courtesy of whomever feels like lighting them. There is a party and bonfire at AMS, so if you're in the neighborhood stop by.

If you are interested in a Wilderness First Responder certification you better hurry as there are only 6 spaces left on the full course. The recerts are all filling quickly, as well. These courses always fill and we only offer it once per year. It is an excellent resource for anybody who spends time in the backcountry.

Here is the current availability for 2011:

Aconcagua Expeditions
January 10 - 28: (FULL)
February 10 - 28: (FULL)

Foraker - Sultana Expedition
April 27 - May 13: (FULL)

Denali - Upper West Rib
May 21 - June 10: 2 spaces

Denali - West Buttress Expeditions
April 25 - May 15: 6 spaces
May 2 - 22: 5 spaces
May 9 - 29: 5 spaces
May 16 - June 5: 3 spaces
May 23 - June 12: (FULL)
May 30 - June 19: (FULL)
June 6 - 26: 1 space
June 13 - July 3: 6 spaces
June 20 - July 12: 1 space

June 27 - July 17: 5 spaces

Mountain Guide Course
April 15 - 26: 5 spaces

Advanced Mountaineering Course
May 6 - 17: 4 spaces

Denali Prep Course/Kahiltna Dome
June 5-14: 6 spaces

12 Day Mountaineering Courses

6 Day Mountaineering Courses
Several Dates: all have availability

7 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses
4 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses

Several Dates: all have availability

Denali Photo Workshop
August 22-27: available

Wilderness First Responder Courses
WFR 70-Hour Course
March 5-13: 6 spaces
WFR 3-day Recert
March 19-21: 16 spaces
March 26-28: 14 spaces

Custom Courses
Custom Expeditions
A limited number of dates are still available for Denali, contact AMS for details.
Many other custom options are available - all over the Alaska Range!

Check out our Glacier Treks!

Here is the full schedule for more options.
Call or email AMS if you have any questions!
907-733-1016
info@climbalaska.org
We're in the office Monday-Friday, 10 am - 5 pm Alaska Time.

We will be closed on December 31 for New Year's Eve-- Party On!

~Blogger Laura

Ten years ago today I got caught up in an avalanche and ended up with a broken back, pelvis and various other things. Today was very different and a stunning day. Jack, Jackie and I went to climb Sron na Lairig in Glen Coe. The snow was not very useful on the route and the turf only partly frozen but with sunshine all day and light winds it was spectacular. The bottom section of the ridge is open to plenty of variation and the different teams all went different ways today. Higher up the ridge narrows to a dramatic finish along very narrow crests.

We made the most of the day by going up over Stob Coire Sgreamhach and down along Beinn Fadha, a brilliant, narrow ridge with rock steps and great views. Ice is forming low down but there is little in the Eilde Canyon and with the temperature rising tomorrow we might not get low level ice climbs this time. However, the snow higher up will consolidate further and high level ice routes will continue to improve.