Hawaii Photo Workshop

We have 3 spaces available for the Photo Workshop.  Wouldn't it be nice to learn new photography skills while enjoying the warmth of Hawaii.  You can find  more information and application on our website:   http://www.climbalaska.org/wshop-hawaii-photo.html.  

At long last the dry Summer is giving way to damp Autumn so Mike and I headed east to find drier conditions in the Cairngorms. Coire an Lochan was not looking too savage so we went to climb Savage Slit for a little extra spice. The damp, slimy, cold classic chimney climbing certainly delivered a bit of a battle at times!

Chimney climbing is a skill on its own and is not so popular these days. It can be very strenuous to gain very little upward progress but at least you get some rests. Face climbing is two dimensional but chimney climbing is in three dimensions. The holds are often behind you or somewhere over your shoulder. This was Mike's first proper chimney and possibly his last! However the fun is often felt in retrospect if not at the time so we might sneak in a few chimneys in the future. It's good to get to grips with a climb that fights back sometimes!

2010 Availability

Here's the rundown at the moment for Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: 1 space
May 17-June 6: 1 space
May 24-June 13: 6 spaces
May 31-June 20: 5 spaces
June 7-June 27: 4 spaces
June 14-July 4: 5 spaces
June 21-July 11: 4 spaces

We also have availability on all Mountaineering Courses, including Denali Prep and Advanced Mountaineering Courses for 2010. We are processing enrollments, so drop us a line if you're curious about enrollment. info@climbalaska.org

Cheers!
~Julia

Catch those fall colors before they are gone!

Denali West Buttress Availibility

The flood clean up has not affected our office hours,  we are here Monday - Friday, 9:00AM - 5:00 PM.  Contact us with any questions or concerns you may have.



May 10 - May 30     2 spots available
May 13 - June 2       5 spots available
May 20 - June 9       5 spots available
May 25 - June 14     6 spots available

May 27 - June 16     6 spots available
June 3 - June 23       4 spots available
June 10 - June 30     2 spots available
June 14 - July 4        6 spots available
June 17 - July 7        5 spots available
June 23 - July 13      6 spots available
June 27 - July 17      3 spots available

21 days, $6800, 6 climbers: 2-3 guides

The Clean-Up Cotntinues

Today we have blue sky and it is a good day to dry things out.  The pictures will speak for themselves.  We want to thank all the great people who have pitched in to help!

Drying things out

Ready for the trash

Emptying the church

Caitlin and Chip after a hard da

Another Guide Gets Married!

AMS Guide Seth Hobby and his bride Maren were married in Norway!
Congratulations Seth & Maren!
(I'll see if I can get a photo up...)
~Julia

Flood Update

Rain, rain and more rain was not a good thing for Talkeetna!  The rivers and creeks were very high and Friday brought a evacuation of east and downtown Talkeetna. The Talkeetna river did flood and water is everywhere.  AMS is fine but we are very busy cleaning up.  The Mountain Shop had 4 feet of water in the basement.  The school basement is also flooded.  Pumps are running to remove all this water and friends are pitching in to help with the clean-up! All of the amazing attitudes that make an expedition work have allowed the folks here at AMS to push on with smiles.

Thanks to the hard working volunteers!

Expedition Availabilty 2015 - Updated!

It is a beautiful fall day here in Talkeetna!  We have assigned some of our lead guides for 2015 Denali West Buttress Expeditions.  Please keep in mind that a lot can happen in the several months so we plan for the best,  but can't absolutely guarantee that the assignments will remain as seen below.

AMS does have spaces for private expedtions for 2015 as well.  Launch dates for small teams (4 for fewer climbers) are available between May 26 and June 8th.

Larger groups should contact AMS directly and we can work it out!

Denali, West Buttress,21 days, $7400, 6 climbers:  2-3 guides.   

April 27 – May 17,   5 places available, lead guide: Nate Opp

May 4 - May 24,        6 places available, lead guide: Larry Holmgren

May 8 - May 28,        5 places available, lead guide: Dustin English

May 11 - May 31,     5 places available, lead guide: Todd Passey

May 15 - June 4,       3 places available, lead guide: Noah Ronczkowski

May 18 - June 7,         4 places available, lead guide:  Dan Corn

May 25 –June 14,       6 places available, lead guide: Todd Tumolo
May 26 - June 19,     FULL: Bruce's custom climb, lead guide: TBA

May 29 - June 18,       4 places available, lead guide: Alex Stroud

June 1 - June 21,       6 places available, lead guide: Mark Postle

June 9 - June 29,         3 places available, lead guide: Josh Hoeschen

June 12 - July 2,        0 places available, FULL: lead guide: Mike Hamill

June 15 - July 7,          6 places available, lead guide: Beth Cleary

June 23 - July 13,        6 places available, lead guide: TBA

June 24 – July 14,       6 places available, lead guide: Melis Coady

June 25 - July 15,       3 places available, lead guide: Rob Gowler

Denali, Upper West Rib, 21 days, $8400, 4 climbers: 2 guides

June 3-23, 4 spots available

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, $ 8400, 4 climbers: 2 guides

May 6 - 26, 4 spots available


Happy climbing everybody!

West Buttress Route, join us!

11,000 camp and AMS is there early season!

AMS on the Polo Field West Buttress

AMS at 14,200' camp on the West Buttress

AMS on the top of Denali

Preparing for 2011 - Availability

The AMS Office staff has been busy getting things ready for the coming climbing season while enjoying a spell of sunny weather!
Here is a fun link to our world: http://www.talkeetnaair.com/web-cam
Here is an even more fun look! http://talktrav.tumblr.com/

It is that time of year when we post the latest enrollment availability here on the blog. Things look pretty open right now, but they tend to fill up in bursts.
We try to update the blog on a regular basis, but things change more quickly than we can post. So...if you are interested in a particular date...send us an email or give us a call!
The office here in Talkeetna is open Mondays-Fridays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. through the winter.
info@climbalaska.org
907-733-1016
Click HERE to secure your spot now.

Here is the current availability for 2011:

Aconcagua Expeditions
January 10 - 28 (FULL)
February 10 - 28: one spot available

Foraker - Sultana Expedition
April 27 - May 13: one spot available

Denali - West Buttress Expeditions
April 25 - May 15: 6 spots
May 2 - 22: 6 spots
May 9 - 29: 5 spots
May 16 - June 5: 6 spots
May 23 - June 12: 4 spots
May 30 - June 19: 5 spots
June 6 - 26: 6 spots
June 13 - July 3: 6 spots
June 20 - July 12: 2 spots
June 27 - July 17: 6 spots

Denali - Upper West Rib
May 21 - June 10: 3 spots

Mountain Guides Course
April 15 - 26: 5 spots

Advanced Mountaineering Course
May 6 - 17: 6 spots

Denali Prep Course/Kahiltna Dome
June 5-14: 6 spots

Mountaineering Courses
Several Dates: all have availability

Wilderness Backpacking Courses
Several Dates: all have availability

Here is the full schedule for more options.

Have a great day!
~Blogger Julia

6 Day Mountaineering course finishes the AMS season

The last climbers in the Alaska Range flew out on time and all smiles. Good weather persisted throughout the course and they were able to crank through all of the curriculum plus move camp. A nice way to end the season. We'll still be posting periodic entries while we get ready for whats turning into an exciting 2010. Be well out there.
Colby

Expedition Availability

It is a beautiful fall day here in Talkeetna!  We have been busy with phone and emails about our upcoming expeditions. 

Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides

April 27 - May 17,    6 spaces available
May 5 - May 25,       6 spaces available
May 9 - May 29,       5 spaces available
May 11 - May 31,     6 spaces available
May 12 - June 1,       6 spaces available
May 19 - June 8,       5 spaces available
May 23 - June 12,     6 spaces available
May 26 - June 15,     3 spaces available
June 2 - June 22,       4 spaces available
June 9 - June 29,       6 spaces available
June 12 - July 2,        6 spaces available
June 16 - July 6,        6 spaces available
June 23 - July 13,      6 spaces available
June 25 - July 15,      6 spaces available

Denali,  West Rib, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides

June 7 - June 27      4 spaces available

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides
May 17 - June 6,     FULL

Autobahn

Photos from Mountaineering Course

Some local folks had the opportunity to ride on the Otter that went in to pick up Melis, Beth, Robert, Brad, Kris & Elias yesterday. Here are some views en route from Talkeetna to the Kahiltna SE Fork (Base Camp). Thanks to Randi for these photos.

It was a little hazy, with that famous "patchy morning fog" we've been hearing about in the forecast lately...

Picking up the team...

Gazing at the White Wonderous Alaska Range over the Otter nose...

And the moment you've been waiting for: Kris's face-off with the famed "Seward's Folly" burger at the West Rib Pub!
Before...

During...
"Mmm, dis is dlishish"
(It's the Fat Ass Sauce)

After...
He almost did it! It took a while, but there was not much left! He even ate most of the 1 lb of fries! There were many spectators cheering him on.
Melis asked him, "Which was harder, this or any of the peaks we climbed?"
"THIS!" he said, noting that he's ready for more mountaineering!!
We look forward to seeing all these course members here at AMS in the future!
Cheers,
~Julia

12-day Mountaineering Course has returned!

Melis, Joey, Dusty and their crew - Tamara, Mark, Garett, John, Stephen, Alex & Michael have returned from the Eldridge Glacier all smiles! They are unpacking, enjoying the autumn leaves and thinking about showers, lunch and dinner, then enjoying some laid-back Talkeetna life.

The 6-day Mountaineering Course is due to fly out tomorrow if the weather holds. (Larry, Matt M, Emily, Casey & Matt B) It's looking pretty good, we'll see how things look in the morning.

Cheers,
~Julia

What a fantastic day to climb Tower Ridge. Adam and Louise enjoyed the CMD Arete this week and previously went round the Snowdon Horseshoe, Tryfan and a few other scrambles. So they were ready for the next step and Tower Ridge is the perfect objective, especially on such a good day.

The crags are looking very dry with little rain over the last couple of weeks at least. The rock on Tower Ridge was perfect and it warm in the sunshine too. Autumn is not far away though and the sun stayed low over the summit with little reaching down on to Tower Ridge.

Louise and Adam found the climb to be tough but quite manageable. The exposure is what makes Tower Ridge so good; the climbing is quite reasonable and without the airiness it would be a breeze. Being able to do the climbing in that situation takes lots of focus! Adam and Louise did it all very well and enjoyed every minute.

Home Safe & Sound

Melis & Beth's Mountaineering Course team are home to clear skies, fall colors and warm sunshine! They had a great flight out of the Alaska Range after the fog burned off here over Talkeetna-town. They are all glowing, and confirmed that yes, they did have the Best Trip Ever in the mountains. They all look relaxed, organized and maybe a little sad that the course has ended! I'm looking forward to hearing their stories and seeing photos, meanwhile they are busy unpacking and hanging gear to dry. They brought me some snow. :-)
~Blogger Julia

Quote of the Week

"The AMS experience is one of a kind.  The education is comprehensive and teaches you a wide variety of skills to be a confident traveler in all kinds of terrain and weather.  The instructors are the real deal and teach in a way that layers the information and makes it easy to absorb.  It was an awesome time with incredible beauty and tons of laughs."

Megan,  12 Day Mountaineering Course 2013

Eldridge Glacier

Wednesday - Sept 16, 2009

Expedition Availability Update

Here's the rundown at the moment for Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: 1 space
May 17-June 6: 1 space
May 24-June 13: 6 spaces
May 31-June 20: 5 spaces
June 7-June 27: 5 spaces
June 14-July 4: 5 spaces
June 21-July 11: 4 spaces

If you are curious about availability for any of our programs, feel free to email us: info@climbalaska.org

Cheers!
~Julia

Dome Summit

5:00 pm Update:

Melis and team just called in from the summit of Kahiltna Dome where the weather and view are spectacular. They will head down shortly and make their way safely back to the Kahiltna Glacier for their Friday pick up.

The September Mountaineering Courses are great for no crowds, fewer overflights and the possibility of Northern Lights; which this group has been able to to see some of the evenings.
~Laura

By the way, this is only the 2nd time the Kahiltna Dome has welcomed AMS climbers to its summit in 3 years! WAY TO GO!
~Julia

Word from two courses!

The 6-day Mountaineering Course packed today and flew to the Coffee Glacier in the Alaska Range. Pictured left to right: Emily & Casey (newlyweds!), instructors Matt Montavon and Larry Holmgren, & Matt B. What a beautiful day! They enjoyed the sun while packing and practicing fixed line ascension. Tomorrow they will work on the basics of knots, roping up, then placing anchors and going for a glacier walk. The next day they'll focus on ascending out of a crevasse and probably practice some scenarios. Tonight they'll focus on building camp and eating dinner!

Melis called in from the Eldridge Glacier with the 12-day Mountaineering Course to report great weather, a foot of new snow and that they are having a great time! They moved camp today, down glacier and plan to do some climbing tomorrow. The next day they will will move camp again then start on some more advanced skills and rescue scenarios. Hello to everyone from Melis, Joey, Dusty, Mark, Tamara, Garett, John, Stephen, Alex and Michael!
Cheers,
~Julia

Photos from the 12-Day Mountaineering Course

We just dropped off the last two students to the bus depot so our final course of the 2012 season is officially over. One of the students, Amos, took loads of great photos some of which I've shared here. The team went to a seldom traveled area called Backside Lake. They flew in via float plane, hiked across very difficult glacial moraine, did some ice climbing and peak ascents. Well done!

Where's the snow...camping on a moraine; note the float plane in the background.

Oh, there is the snow...

Happy campers drying out their gear during a class... Matt, Shaun, Tony and Jeremy.

Are those chocolate chip pancakes!!!??

One of the benefits of a late season course--stars and northern lights.

A little ice climbing.

Amos revels in the sunshine and views.

Students climbing an un-named peak

Instructor Melis and team on top.

The Last Hurrah of the Season

Kahiltna Dome as seen from 11,000 feet on the West Buttress route.

Melis and gang from the 12 Day Mountaineering course are continuing to have a blast. The weather has been gorgeous; it is hot and sunny on the glacier. Some folks are sleeping outside under the stars! They are presently camped at the base of Ski Hill (7,900) on the West Butress route. They are thinking about climbing Kahiltna Dome (12,525 ft) if the conditions are right. WOW!

Blogger Laura

Hoeschen 12 Day Mountaineering Course Returns

Instructors Josh Hoeschen, Jake Kayes and students returned from the the Scanadavian Glacier yesterday.  They had a great time and learned many new skills.  The group were tired but happy!

Robert, Zack,Keenan, Instructor Jake Kayes, Malcolm, Instructor Josh Hoeschen, Megan, Kamran

Denmark Mtn

Ridge to Summit of Greenland Mtn

Kamran moving through notch on the ridge

Summit of Greenland Peak

Camp in moraine of Scandinavian Glacier

Looking up the Matanuska Glacier