I heard from everyone today. LOVE THAT
Peter Anderson and crew are at Basecamp, waiting for a flight out. They arrived into basecamp at about 2 pm this afternoon. They were due to picked up at 5:30 pm , but the winds picked up at basecamp and the air taxi's are waiting for them to calm before going in with any planes. I fully support these safety calls. There are climbing teams waiting to fly into basecamp from Talkeetna too. I am sure their afternoon activities included: cat napping, enjoying all the warm temps and breathing the "thick air" at base camp. They have plenty of supplies in camp to spend the night if the winds don't quiet down tonight.
Mike Hamill's team remains at 14,200'. They are doing well and are resting today. They hope to move up to high camp tomorrow.
Phil Ershler's IMG/AMS team is at 17,200'. The winds were again too high (25 mph) for a summit day, They are spending tonight at high camp and will make a call tomorrow to either go to the summit if the weather is suitable or to come down. They have spent 9 nights waiting for good weather at 14 camp and I am sure they are hoping for good weather tomorrow. They are up there with several other guided teams from other companies, they are all waiting for some clearing or at least some calming of the winds. For what it is worth (mountain weather forecasting is difficult to predict) the forecast looks rather good for them, not stellar and perfect, but it calls for winds less than 20 mph with a thin layer of clouds. Our fingers are crossed for them.
Colby Coombs' team rolled into 11,000' camp at about 6:30 this morning. They traveled in some windy, snowy weather from 7,800' to get there. They left 7,800' camp very early, still on their night schedule, and just after they left camp the winds started to pick up. They rested all day and hope to make upward progression tomorrow, weather depending.
Rob Gowler's team is at 7,800' they made a carry to 9,800' and put their extra food, fuel and equipment in a cache (big snow hole). They are sleeping at 7,800' tonight and if the weather is decent, they will move up to either 9,800' or 11,000' tomorrow. It was whiteout, snowy, windy and cold during on the glacier today for them but they cranked it out, the mountain is putting them right into the thick of it - they will have all of their clothing systems down pat in the next few days. Everyone is doing well.
Cheers,
- Caitlin
Sabtu, 27 Juni 2015
Denali, West Buttress ALL AMS TEAM Updates
It has been a very snowy on Denali this season. Lisa, the flight service basecamp manager, thinks this may be a record breaking snowfall year! Basecamp currently has 40" of snow, and the climbing season will end with more snow than when it began!
All of our teams are doing well, they are waiting to move higher.
The AMS 6/23 Expedition led by guide Melis Coady and our 6/24 Expedition led by guide Josh Hoeschen are at 7,800' (camp 1). Over 3 feet (1 meter) of snow has fallen on them in the last 24 hours. They are doing lots of shoveling! they have plenty of food, fuel and shelter. They are keeping warm and are in good spirits and health. They are waiting for the weather to improve before they make their move (and break a new trail through this deep snow) higher on the mountain.
Noah Ronczkowski 6/22 Expedition are at 11,200' Camp. They received over a meter of snow as well. They are shoveling out their camp and waiting for the weather to improve and snow pack to stabilize. Winds are light with stronger gusts coming from the west. Noah reports that all are in very good moods and are doing well awaiting better climbing conditions.
Todd Tumolo leading the 6/16 Expedition at at 14,200 camp. Yesterday they reported that they had about 3 feet of snow and we are sure they have received more last night as well. They are sitting tight in camp and enjoying their rest days, all are in good spirits!
The June 12 AMS expedition led by Mike Hamill remains at 17,200' they are all feeling strong and awaiting the weather along side several other teams. They are doing well! We have had teams wait up to 11 days at high camp for weather, we wonder if that record will be broken this year...?
Our final Denali West Buttress 6/25 team led by Rob Gowler is experiencing the "Talkeetna Hang". The snow on the mountain is rain, rain and more rain in Talkeetna. The team is keeping busy with classes taught by AMS Guides Rob, Adam Fabrikant and Karina Amortegui.
All of our teams are doing well, they are waiting to move higher.
The AMS 6/23 Expedition led by guide Melis Coady and our 6/24 Expedition led by guide Josh Hoeschen are at 7,800' (camp 1). Over 3 feet (1 meter) of snow has fallen on them in the last 24 hours. They are doing lots of shoveling! they have plenty of food, fuel and shelter. They are keeping warm and are in good spirits and health. They are waiting for the weather to improve before they make their move (and break a new trail through this deep snow) higher on the mountain.
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| View of 7,800' camp |
Noah Ronczkowski 6/22 Expedition are at 11,200' Camp. They received over a meter of snow as well. They are shoveling out their camp and waiting for the weather to improve and snow pack to stabilize. Winds are light with stronger gusts coming from the west. Noah reports that all are in very good moods and are doing well awaiting better climbing conditions.
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| A team leaving 11 K Camp, on a clear day. |
Todd Tumolo leading the 6/16 Expedition at at 14,200 camp. Yesterday they reported that they had about 3 feet of snow and we are sure they have received more last night as well. They are sitting tight in camp and enjoying their rest days, all are in good spirits!
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| View of 14,200 Camp |
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| AMS at 17,200' high camp, Denali pass, a stormy but clearing weather day. |
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| Climbers enjoying the view from the 17,200' High Camp Balcony |
Our final Denali West Buttress 6/25 team led by Rob Gowler is experiencing the "Talkeetna Hang". The snow on the mountain is rain, rain and more rain in Talkeetna. The team is keeping busy with classes taught by AMS Guides Rob, Adam Fabrikant and Karina Amortegui.
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| Reviewing |
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| Karina demostrates duffle packing |
Gowler 6/27 Denali West Buttress
AMS Guides Rob Gowler, Dusty Eroh, Intern Becky King and team are on their way to Kahiltna Base Camp. This is our last expedition of the season. They arrived here organized and ready to climb. They had a noon flight scheduled, which will give them time to review skills and relax before they begin. This team will be traveling on a night schedule.
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| Guide Rob Gowler, Curtis, Greg, Guide Dusty Eroh, Dave, Intern Becky King, Devon, Kera and Kent |
Quote of the Week
Mike a recent Denali team member.
"AMS was by far the best outfit on the Mountain. Not only did they know everyone on the Mountain but other guides would ask them for advice. Denali is an extreme environment and no place to cut corners. AMS sets the bar high and other companies should try and model themselves as such!"
"AMS was by far the best outfit on the Mountain. Not only did they know everyone on the Mountain but other guides would ask them for advice. Denali is an extreme environment and no place to cut corners. AMS sets the bar high and other companies should try and model themselves as such!"
Janes 6/17 Summit
AMS Guide Mike Janes checked in last night from high camp. They had just returned from their summit. The team was tired but happy! They are resting today and weather permitting will start down tonight.
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| Climbers on Summit Ridge |
Jumat, 26 Juni 2015
Rob Gowler and Colby Coombs Teams
Colby just phoned in from the base of "Ski Hill" at 7,800'.
Both he and Rob are settled into camp there and are doing GREAT! The move to the base of "Ski Hill" is often a heavy one, as climbers are starting off with all of their gear in one big push. From here on out they will carry loads up the mountain.
This is what they are looking at today:
An AMS camp at the base of Ski Hill, 7800', Kahiltna Glacier, looking up at " Ski Hill", the route for the next day.
Looking east from the 7,800' Camp. Toward the North East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and the West Face of Denali.
Both he and Rob are settled into camp there and are doing GREAT! The move to the base of "Ski Hill" is often a heavy one, as climbers are starting off with all of their gear in one big push. From here on out they will carry loads up the mountain.
This is what they are looking at today:
An AMS camp at the base of Ski Hill, 7800', Kahiltna Glacier, looking up at " Ski Hill", the route for the next day.
Looking east from the 7,800' Camp. Toward the North East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and the West Face of Denali.
MOUNTAIN PHOTOS FROM JUNE 25
Tom Falley's, super cub photographs return! Thanks Tom for sending these along. If you double click you can easily see the white line in this photo. This is the route that Mike Hamill's team made from 11,000' to 14,200' yesterday, that's some trail breaking!What great looking summit day weather for Peter's team!
This Tom Falley photo shows Windy Corner, 14,200' camp, and the fixed lines up to 16,200', and the routes. If you double click and look closely, you can see climbers rounding windy corner. Since this photo was taken just yesterday, I bet some of them are Mike Hamill's team.