12 Day Mountaineering Course Flies into the Pika

Another mountaineering course left today under bluebird conditions for 12 fun filled days in Little Switzerland. Guides Alex Stroud and Jeremiah Phelps are ready to have some great learning and fun with students Joe, Dale, Yarrow and David.

Yarrow practices some knots.

Jeremiah and David go over the finer points of a pack tether.

Alex looks over Dale's gear.

Ready for Action: Dale, Yarrow, David, Joe, Alex and Jeremiah striking a post. That snow behind them was plowed up so we could access our gear building...we couldn't wait for it to melt!

Breakfast Is Finished

Here's some pictures from the Ham & Eggs climb. Todd and Brent are back in the flat lands...

Looking down at Mounts Dickey and Bradley from the Incisor climb.

Brent on pitch 11 of the route...click on the photo to enlarge and see the airplane on the landing strip below!

Mountain Guides Course Update

Guide Dan Corn from the Mountain Guides Course, called this morning. They are going to head down the Ruth Glacier to check out the Ice Fall route. They have been having classes and training in the Ruth Amphitheater. It is going great and they are having supremely beautiful weather.

Here's a picture from a course last year on the Ruth Glacier.

Our first 12 day Mountaineering course of the season just went in to the Range.

Our season is officially under way. We have already completed several trips, film crews, workshops and medical courses this season, but now we will be launching course and expedition after course and expedition for the several months. We have pretty much dug ourselves out from the long winter. There is still a few feet of snow in Talkeetna.

Instructors, Allie Barker and Dan Corn flew into Kahiltna Base camp yesterday afternoon to start the April 20th 12 day Mountaineering Course. They flew into the same base camp that all of the Denali, Mt. Foraker and Mt. Hunter climbers use. They will spend about 3 days around B.C. learning the necessary skills to traverse from the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna (B.C.) to the Pika Glacier, known by climbers as "little switzerland", a distance of approximately 20 miles. This is an awesome route. The views are insane and there is climbing to do along the way appropriate for the experience level of this group.


(Dan Corn)












The crew, getting ready at Talkeetna Air Taxi for the flight into the mountains.

We have also just started our in-house guides and Medical Protocols review. This is an intense 3 day review of all of our Backcountry Medical Direction Protocols and Medication Standing Orders. Dr. Peter Hackett is AMS' Medical Director. Peter, along with Lance Taysom, WEMT-B, RN and senior WMI instructor wrote our medical directions. Lance and AMS guide and WMI instructor Melis Coady are running the Medical Protocls Review over these next few days. Photos to come.

Stay tuned for lots more climbs and expeditions heading out in the next week.

Rob

Ham 'n' Eggs

AMS Guide Todd Tumolo called in from the "col" at the top of the route.  He said they had an awesome climb.  The route is in great shape.  They were just in the process of brewing up a hot drink before they started the rappels back down the same route they just climbed up.

Todd and Brent left camp at 4 AM this morning, were climbing by 5 and had reached the top of the route by 3 PM.

Very well done indeed.  Todd said they were going to sleep in tomorrow (Sunday).

Brian Okonek Photo of the South Face of the Moose's Tooth.  

Expedtion Availiabilty Update

We have a few additional Denali,  Foraker and mountaineering course  positions positions still open.  If you have previous experience, we invite you to apply for one of our 2014 Alaska Range big mountain expeditions.  Join AMS to climb to the top of North America.  Please contact us with any questions and for more information.
 

Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides, scheduled, $7,000 USD April 27 - May 17, 2 climber positions available, Guide: Dan Corn

May 5 - May 25, FULL Guide: Patrick Ormond

May 9 - May 29, 2 climber positions available, Guide: Tom Torkelson

May 11 - May 31, 2 climber positions available, NEW: special small person team: 4 climbers, 2 guides, $9,500 USD, Guide: Todd Passey
May 12 - June 1, FULL, Guide: Mark Postle

May 23 - June 12, FULL Guide: Nate Opp  
May 25- June 14, FULL Custom Expedition, Alex Stroud

May 26 - June 15, FULL Guide: Larry Holmgren

May 26 - June 15, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Forest Wagner  
May 27 - June 16, FULL Custom Expedition Guide: Mike Janes

June 2 - June 22,   FULL Guide: Nick D'Alessio  
June 8 - June 28, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Mark Postle
June 8 - June 28, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Colby Coombs 

June 12 - July 2, FULL Guide: Mike Hamill

June 16 - July 6, FULL Guide: Todd Tumolo

June 22 - July 12, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Noah Ronczkowski

June 23 - July 13, FULL Custom  Expedition, Guide: Melis Coady

June 24 -July 14, 3 climber positions available, NEW expedition date! Guide:Josh Hoeschen
June 25 - July 15, FULL Guide: Rob Gowler

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides, $8200

May 17 - June 6, 1 climber position available, Guide: Melis Coady

Denali, Traverse: West Buttress - Wonder Lake, 25 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides, $ contact AMS       
May 26 - June 19, FULL Guide: Dustin English 

Mt. Hunter, West Ridge,  14 days, 4 climbers: 2 guides, $ custom

May 3 - May 16, FULL Guide: Nate Opp

Join Us!

Yesterday, Andy took Liam and Rob up Tower Ridge which was in superb spring condition. Well frozen snow and dry rock with blue sky and warm sunshine on the summit. Tower Ridge was a popular choice with several teams enjoying the great conditions. Comb Gully is still in reasonable shape as is Green Gully but both have cornices above them as well. Point Five Gully has a big line across it below the chimney.

Today, Andy was out again for us this time with Sharlin. They were doing some coaching on Ledge Route on their way to the summit of Ben Nevis. It was another stunning spring day but with less frost than yesterday. Even though it is clear over night at the moment it is not cooling down so much and the snow is softening and melting away in the sunshine. The slide down the Red Burn is still great though!