Back from Red Rocks

AMS guides Blaine Smith and Colby Coombs just got back from a week of rock climbing at Red Rocks, NV. Alaskans love the desert when there's snow on the ground back home.

It's odd to have Grade V's and a huge city within easy reach.

Friday Update

Hello all, here is an availability update...

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: FULL
May 17-June 6: FULL
May 24-June 13: 2 spaces
May 31-June 20: 3 spaces*
June 7-June 27: 2 spaces
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 2 spaces
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!
*Special small group, 4 climbers, 2 guides,$6900 per person

Have a great weekend!
~Julia

Farewell Furry Friend

This August we said farewell to our four-legged constant companion, Luke.
He was in charge of entertainment, always encouraging us to play or smile at his antics. Here, he "helps" Blaine demonstrate fixed line ascension.

Luke was famous for his sharp barks that let you know who's in charge. I got to see his softer side. He would sit here under my desk peacefully, peering up at me. I think he was telepathic, telling me I needed to walk toward the treat jar.

Luke may have been the only Patterdale Terrier in Alaska, hard to say. He certainly had a one-of-a-kind personality. His passing was fairly sudden, leaving us all a bit speechless. He was a great friend to all and will be missed more than words can say.

AMS will not be long without canine companionship, it's just too quiet around here! We'll keep you posted.

~Julia

Cool & Sunny in Talkeetna

We're enjoying a view of the Range today - it has been a while! Yesterday we had our first snowfall, but it was gone in no time. This morning it was down to 20 degrees, with this lovely view...
That cloud became a triple lenticular with a miles-long tail, fueled by a gnarly wind out of the north!













Here is the update for availability:

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: 1 space
May 17-June 6: FULL
May 24-June 13: 3 spaces
May 31-June 20: 3 spaces*
June 7-June 27: 2 spaces
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 2 spaces
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!
*Special small group, 4 climbers, 2 guides,$6900 per person

Enjoy the day!
~Julia

Sad Week in Talkeetna

Word spreads like wildfire in the climbing community, this week Talkeetna got a double whammy of bad news.

This morning we learned of the death of Joe Puryear, husband of Michelle O'Neill. Joe and Michelle were married here in Talkeetna and have many close friends here, all over Alaska and all over the world. Michelle is with Joe's family, close friends are there to help them through this difficult time. We will keep you posted when memorial arrangements have been made.

We also lost Chhewang Nima Sherpa, who was a National Park Service volunteer with the Mountaineering Rangers here on Denali and a friendly face here in Talkeetna.
Our thoughts go out to the families and loved ones of these two gentle individuals.

Here are some links with the latest news and some more info about each of them:
http://ktna.org/2010/10/27/mountaineer-puryear-dies-in-tibet/
http://climbnepal.blogspot.com/
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37684
http://www.sherpamagic.com/

Namaste
~Julia

First Snow of the Winter in Talkeetna!

Sure, it's sticky and wet, but it sure is beautiful!
The sun is peeking through, making it even better. The AMS four-legged mascots are digging it, and it gets the two-leggeds thinking about waxing their skis (and changing over their tires).

Here is the current availability for 2011:

Aconcagua Expeditions
January 10 - 28: (FULL)
February 10 - 28: one spot available

Foraker - Sultana Expedition
April 27 - May 13: (FULL)

Denali - Upper West Rib
May 21 - June 10: 3 spots

Denali - West Buttress Expeditions
April 25 - May 15: 5 spots
May 2 - 22: 6 spots
May 9 - 29: 5 spots
May 16 - June 5: 5 spots
May 23 - June 12: 2 spots
May 30 - June 19: 3 spots
June 6 - 26: 5 spots
June 13 - July 3: 6 spots
June 20 - July 12: 2 spots
June 27 - July 17: 5 spots

Mountain Guides Course
April 15 - 26: 4 spots

Advanced Mountaineering Course
May 6 - 17: 6 spots

Denali Prep Course/Kahiltna Dome
June 5-14: 6 spots

Mountaineering Courses
Several Dates: all have availability

Wilderness Backpacking Courses
Several Dates: all have availability

Denali Photo Workshop
August 22-27: available

Wilderness First Responder Courses
WFR 70-Hour Course
March 5-13: 13 spots
WFR 3-day Recert
March 19-21: 18 spots
March 26-28: 18 spots

Custom Expeditions
A limited number of dates are still available for Denali, contact AMS for details.
Many other custom options are available - all over the Alaska Range!

Here is the full schedule for more options.
Call or email AMS if you have any questions!
We're in the office Monday-Friday, 10 am - 5 pm Alaska Time.
907-733-1016
info@climbalaska.org
~Blogger Julia

Let it snow!

A change in the jet stream has made for an unusually warm and wet fall here in Alaska. The latest result has been a large landslide in Denali National Park.

Below is a aerial photo of the Denali park road at approximately Mile 37. This site is west of Tattler Creek, on the section of road going up to Sable Pass.

 

The slide, which consists of an estimated 30,000 yards of rock and soil, covers approximately 200 feet of the road in depths of up to 35 feet. The material was released from a point 500 feet above the road, and flowed south below the road. No one was hurt and crews are working to remove the debris.

Still, all this rain down low has been snow on Denali! The peak revealed itself today and looks cozily covered in tons of snow. That bodes well for good glacier travel conditions next summer. Later in the winter it can be too cold and windy to get much snow accumulation on the glaciers.

Hope you all are having a good start to winter.