Mid-Winter Update

Busy day in the AMS Office! It's an all-girls day, dogs included.

Laura has the view to the West, processing enrollments.

Frannie is enjoying the spacious kitchen table, helping us with end of season reports.

Julia and Sienna have the East side, goofing off!

Here's what it's like outside ~ Winter Wonderland! The sun is rising just before 10 am and setting just after 3:30pm. We are losing about 4 minutes of daylight each day. If you want to get outside you have to time it right or ski by headlamp. Only 3 more weeks until Winter Solstice, when the days start getting longer!

We got our wish on Thanksgiving Day, the rain quit and the snow came down in big flakes. The power went out around 6:30pm and stayed out all night for most people in the area. A candle-lit evening!

Tomorrow we'll have an enrollment update for you.
Ciao for now,
~Blogger Julia

Expedition Availability

We've had a flurry of activity with enrollments.  We have also assigned the lead guides on the most of the expeditions. Time to get your applications in!

Denali, West Buttress
May 10 - May 30     2 spaces available, Guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2       4 spaces available, Guided by Todd Tumolo
May 20 - June 9       5 spaces available, Guided by Nate Opp
May 25 - June 14     6 spaces available, Guided by Nick D'Alessio
May 27 - June 16     4 spaces available, Guided by Mark Postle
June 3 - June 23       1 space available, Guided by Todd Passey
June 10 - June 30     FULL, Guided by Mike Hamill (waiting list available)
June 14 - July 4        5 spaces available, Guided by Mike Janes
June 17 - July 7        5 spaces available. Guided by Josh Hoeschen
June 23 - July 13      6 spaces available, Guided by Joey McBrayer
June 27 - July 17      3 spaces available, Guided by Rob Gowler
21 Days, $6800, 6 climbers: 2-3 guides

Denali, Upper West Rib
June 7 - June 27,    1 space available
21 Days, $7900, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Guided by Melis Coady
May 17 - June 2,   1 space available  
17 Days, $6800, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Climbers on the summit ridge of Denali.

Expedition Availability

Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides

April 27 - May 17,     4 spaces available
May 5 - May 25,        5 spaces available
May 9 - May 29,        4 spaces available
May 11 - May 31,       FULL
May 12 - June 1,        5 spaces available
May 19 - June 8,        4 spaces available
May 23 - June 12,      5 spaces available
May 26 - June 15,       1 space available
June 2 - June 22,       3 spaces available
June 9 - June 29,       5 spaces available
June 12 - July 2,         6 spaces available
June 16 - July 6,         6 spaces available
June 23 - July 13,       FULL
June 25 - July 15,       5 spaces available

Denali,  West Rib, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides

June 7 - June 27      2 spaces available

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides
May 17 - June 6,     FULL

AMS is Proud to Work With Combat Wounded Veterans

"No matter what situation you find yourself in, whether injured or able bodied, know that your only limitations are those you impose upon yourself and that as a team and family we can overcome any obstacle. Never Give up!!"

-James "Will" Wilson

AMS/CWVC expedition, Ruth glacier 2013

It is an honor to help them reach their goals.

Expedition and Course Availability

EXPEDITIONS

      AMS provides and amazing opportunity for students of mountaineering to travel with and learn from engaging, personable professionals with world-class climbing experience. It truly is a banquet of information and experience for those interested in learning.   S. Kennedy, Denali 2012


Denali, West Buttress
May 10 - May 30     2 spaces available, Guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2       4 spaces available, Guided by Todd Tumolo
May 20 - June 9       5 spaces available, Guided by Nate Opp
May 25 - June 14     6 spaces available
May 27 - June 16     5 spaces available, Guided by Mark Postle
June 3 - June 23       1 space available, Guided by Todd Passey
June 10 - June 30     FULL, Guided by Mike Hamill (waiting list available)
June 14 - July 4        5 spaces available
June 17 - July 7        5 spaces available
June 23 - July 13      6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17      3 spaces available, Guided by Rob Gowler
21 Days, $6800, 6 climbers: 2-3 guides

Denali, Upper West Rib
June 7 - June 27,    3 spaces available
21 Days, $7900, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Guided by Melis Coady
May 17 - June 2,   1 space available  
17 Days, $6800, 4 climbers: 2 guides

MOUNTAINEERING COURSES

Twelve Day Mountaineering
 9 students, 2-3 instructors, $2950
April 22 - May 3
May 7 -18
June 4 - 15
July  -20
August 3 -14
September 1-12


Fifteen Day Mountaineering
  ~A new course that combines flying into and hiking out of the Alaska Range!
 9 students, 2-3 instructors, $3300
July 9 - 23, 8 spaces left

Six Day
9 students, 2-3 instructors, $2150
April 28 - May 3
May 14 - 19
June 18 -23
July 21 -26
August 18 -23
September 2 -7

Advanced Mountaineering  ~We only take six students on this course and it does fill up!
 6 students, 2 instructors, $3500
May 1 - 12

Mountain Guides Course ~ A great step to help launch your guiding career.

We offer this course every few years and would like to offer it again. Please contact the office if you are interested in this excellent instructional course.

-->

This 12-day course provides an excellent opportunity to learn how to guide clients on Alaskan expeditions and how to teach a mountaineering progression to students.  The course accomplishes this goal in a challenging and remote glaciated environment.  Alaska’s mountains are uncompromising and they present unique demands to the mountaineer. This course provides a platform to launch a career in big mountain guiding.

Last week we had some great weather and climbing conditions for classic ridges and hard mixed climbing on Ben Nevis. Some impressive climbing has been done by Ben Nevis regulars including The Secret, Stormtrooper, Arthur, Cornucopia and Archangel. There has even been some new routing action already. As ever, Simon Richardson has the details on his excellent blog here - Scottish Winter

Just now a warm front has brought a slight rise in temperatures and steady drizzle and light rain. This will stay with us for a couple of days but it looks like it will be just enough to get the snow wet through without melting away too much. Towards the end of the week we'll see a return to a cold northerly air stream and strong winds that will refreeze the snow-pack and rime up the crags. Turf is already quite well frozen on many of the crags and by the weekend it could well be even better.

Get ready for another weekend of top mixed climbing!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Happy Thanksgiving from all of us at AMS!

"Pardoning the Chickens"













Lisle, White Chicken & Rosie. Chicken found a friend to keep her warm.

The AMS Office will be closed for the Thanksgiving Holiday Weekend. We'll be back on Monday. Have a great weekend!
~Julia, Caitlin, Colby, Rob

Expedition Availability Report:

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 4 spaces
May 3- 23: FULL
May 10-30: FULL (waitlist)
May 17-June 6: FULL (waitlist)
May 24-June 13: FULL
May 31-June 20: FULL
June 7-June 27: FULL
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 1 space
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!

Aconcagua, Normal Route, 2010 Availability:
February 8-26, 2010: 6 spaces
Argentina is calling you!

Kahiltna Dome Expedition/Denali Prep Course, 2010 Availability:
June 3-12: 7 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Denali, West Rib, 2010 Availability:
May 29-June 18: 4 spaces. Contact AMS for details!
Custom Dates Available

Denali, Upper West Rib, 2010 Availability:
June 5-June 25: 4 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Wilderness First Responder Course, 2010
March 6-14: 3 spaces available!

WFR Re-certifications, 2010
March 20-22: Available
March 27-29: Available

Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Workshops, 2010
April 10-11: 7 spaces available
There are also sessions in July and August.

Send us an email if you have questions about a particular program or availability.
We'll be back in the office on Monday.

Cheers,
~Julia

Happy Thanksgiving!

Rain, rain, go away

the day before Thanksgiving Day!

We've got skiing

eating

drinking

...plans
already made.

The trails are slush,

they've turned to mush,

"like cream of wheat"

they say.

Bring us sun,

or better - snow,

'cause this rain

has got to go!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Love and be loved, may you be safe, warm and well-fed.

From the AMS Office Staff

~Caitlin, Colby, Julia, Laura, Rob & Frannie

The AMS Office will be closed November 25-28th.

We'll be back on Monday.

Tuesday Update

Six inches of new snow in Talkeetna! More beautiful powder and another pretty day. Low sunlight gave us a bit of warmth midday and warm temps made it a joy to be outside. A perfect day for making snow angels. It made it up to 25 F today.

We've filled another expedition! The WFR course will be full soon, also.

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 4 spaces (1 pending)
May 3- 23: FULL
May 10-30: FULL (waitlist)
May 17-June 6: FULL (waitlist)
May 24-June 13: FULL
May 31-June 20: FULL
June 7-June 27: FULL
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 1 space
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!

Wilderness First Responder Course, 2010
March 6-14: 3 spaces available!

Check in with us if you have any questions.
Cheers!
~Julia

Planning Section Chief Training

The AMS Mountain Shop saw lots of action this weekend, while it snowed like crazy.

Daniel Hourihan, owner of Element Training Group, Eagle River, Alaska lead a course entitled: Planning Section Chief: Search and Rescue. The three day course was held at AMS' Mountain Shop in Talkeetna and included 21 participants from the National Park Service, Alaska National Guard PJ's, Alaska Mountain Rescue Group, Alaska State Troopers, Anchorage Police Department, and the Matanuska-Susitna Bureau.
It was impressive to see the sophistication in the mechanisms involved in conducting large scale rescues involving multiple government agencies. The degree of professionalism would give any victim confidence that everything possible is being done. Dan was involved in the search for Karen McNiell and Sue Nott on Mt. Foraker in 2006 and Yuto Inoue and Tatsuro Yamada on Denali's Cassin Ridge last year.

This is rapidly becoming my favourite viewpoint. From the North Face Car Park a stiff up hill push on the bike gets you to this spot looking over the trees to the North Face. Over the last week ice has been forming in drainage lines quite well. There is quite a lot on the Carn Dearg Cascades, on Nordwand on the North Face of Castle Ridge and many other places. This is not surprising as it was -6C on the tops for much of the week with the wind blowing onto the crags and there is water in the ground to seep out ready to freeze.

There were a few climbers out enjoying early season climbing. The turf is much more frozen after a week of good cold weather and the crags are well rimed up in many places. Unfortunately warmer weather will return this week for a few days but afterwards we might get more snow with thaw freeze cycles. Over all it's a good build up to the winter. One very good feature of this view point is the ride back down one of the "secret" trails in the trees back to the car park. With only one hour to go and play this is about as good and inspiring as it gets.

Schedule Update & Technical Difficulties

Greetings from slushy Talkeetna!

Alaska might be one of the few places where they cancel school on account of rain. Today is day three of school being closed due to treacherous road conditions. People and pets have been cooped up and starting to suffer from Cabin Fever! The weatherman is calling for snow tomorrow, but with slush and big puddles everywhere, folks are not too excited about that.

The ski trails were in great condition! Last Saturday, there was a "Wooden Ski" Classic that about a dozen community members participated in. Retro attire was encouraged! Wool sweaters, knickers, skirts, wooden skis, snowshoes and fur mittens were all seen that day. The group skied about 2 hours in fairly deep, fresh snow, making a long loop around town, along the River Trail and the Swamp Trail (by Twister Creek) starting and ending at the Talkeetna Roadhouse. The temp was 5 to 10 degrees above zero, the sun was out and it was beautiful.

So, here is the good news - enrollments are looking good!

We are receiving emails, faxes and phone calls every day for all sorts of programs.

Here is the current availability for 2011:

Aconcagua Expeditions
January 10 - 28: (FULL)
February 10 - 28: two spots available

Foraker - Sultana Expedition
April 27 - May 13: (FULL)

Denali - Upper West Rib
May 21 - June 10: 3 spots

Denali - West Buttress Expeditions
April 25 - May 15: 6 spots
May 2 - 22: 6 spots
May 9 - 29: 4 spots
May 16 - June 5: 4 spots
May 23 - June 12: 1 spot
May 30 - June 19: (FULL)
June 6 - 26: 2 spots
June 13 - July 3: 6 spots
June 20 - July 12: 1 spot
June 27 - July 17: 5 spots

Mountain Guide Course
April 15 - 26: 4 spots

Advanced Mountaineering Course
May 6 - 17: 5 spots

Denali Prep Course/Kahiltna Dome
June 5-14: 6 spots

12 Day Mountaineering Courses

6 Day Mountaineering Courses
Several Dates: all have availability

7 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses
4 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses

Several Dates: all have availability

Denali Photo Workshop
August 22-27: available

Wilderness First Responder Courses
WFR 70-Hour Course
March 5-13: 12 spots
WFR 3-day Recert
March 19-21: 18 spots
March 26-28: 16 spots

Custom Courses
Custom Expeditions
A limited number of dates are still available for Denali, contact AMS for details.
Many other custom options are available - all over the Alaska Range!

Check out our Glacier Treks!

Here is the full schedule for more options.
Call or email AMS if you have any questions!
907-733-1016
info@climbalaska.org
We're in the office Monday-Friday, 10 am - 5 pm Alaska Time.
We will be closed in observance of Winter Holidays:
November 25 & 26, December 24, December 31

Happy Thanksgiving!

~Blogger Julia

Expedition Update

The temp is soaring today! Up to 36 (above zero!) today, with warm and cloudy being the forecast for the week. Maybe we'll get some snow? The Aurora Forecast predicts a "moderate" showing of Northern Lights for Thanksgiving, which is more of a showing than we've had in quite a while. If you look at the forecast here, you'll see that the folks up around the arctic circle get more shows than we do "way down" here at Latitude 62.

Expedition Availability Report:

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 4 spaces
May 3- 23: FULL
May 10-30: FULL (waitlist)
May 17-June 6: FULL (waitlist)
May 24-June 13: FULL
May 31-June 20: 1 space*
June 7-June 27: FULL
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 1 space
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!
*Special small group, 4 climbers, 2 guides,$6900 per person

Aconcagua, Normal Route, 2010 Availability:
February 8-26, 2010: 6 spaces
Argentina is calling you!

Kahiltna Dome Expedition/Denali Prep Course, 2010 Availability:
June 3-12: 7 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Denali, West Rib, 2010 Availability:
May 29-June 18: 4 spaces. Contact AMS for details!
Custom Dates Available

Denali, Upper West Rib, 2010 Availability:
June 5-June 25: 4 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Wilderness First Responder Course, 2010
March 6-14: 3 spaces available!

WFR Re-certifications, 2010
March 20-22: Available
March 27-29: Available

Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Workshops, 2010
April 10-11: 7 spaces available
There are also sessions in July and August.

Send us an email if you have questions about a particular program or availability.
We're here this week through Wednesday, and closed for the Thanksgiving Holiday Weekend.

Cheers,
~Julia

Happy Thanksgiving

The AMS staff wishes you and yours a happy and healthy Thanksgiving. We are very thankful for the friends and neighbors that helped with our recent flooding and even more thankful that the flood alert of last week subsided.

Here's a picture I took at 4:45 PM this evening at the end of Main Street. Due to a down-river ice jam, the moving water backed up toward town. It came within inches of Main Street but luckily receded. The water left behind re-froze...it is almost impossible to walk at the river front now due to these large blocks of ice and the thin shelf ice.

We'll be closed tomorrow and open again on Friday afternoon then again on Monday morning at 9:00 AM. 

~blogger laura

The Alaska Range with an ice jam in the foreground. I'm standing near where most people walk from the end of Main Street to take pictures.

2014 Expedition Availability

Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides

April 27 - May 17,     4 spaces available
May 5 - May 25,        5 spaces available
May 9 - May 29,        5 spaces available
May 11 - May 31,       6 spaces available
May 12 - June 1,        5 spaces available
May 19 - June 8,        4 spaces available
May 23 - June 12,      5 spaces available
May 26 - June 15,       1 space available
June 2 - June 22,       3 spaces available
June 9 - June 29,       5 spaces available
June 12 - July 2,         6 spaces available
June 16 - July 6,         6 spaces available
June 23 - July 13,       FULL
June 25 - July 15,       5 spaces available

Denali,  West Rib, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides

June 7 - June 27      2 spaces available

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides
May 17 - June 6,     FULL

15-Day Mountaineering Course

Join us on our 15-day mountaineering course

AMS Instructor Melis Coady rappels out of Little Switzerland with student Joseph Bell.

Last year was our first year offering this course where students climbed for 12-days in Little Switzerland on the Pika glacier and then spent 3-days hiking out to the road. Students did a series of 5 rappels with large packs to the granite glacier where they began their 3-day 30-mile cross country trek through the foothills of the Alaska Range with amazing vistas and wildlife viewing opportunities.

Ascending Wildhorse basin from the Granite glacier. Granite spires of Little Switzerland in the background.

Dates: July 8 - 22, 2014

Cost: $3,300

Apply Here

Students navigate out of this trail-less area with map and compass.

Breathe In the Light

In June of 2012, during the week of the Summer Solstice, filmmakers Bloom and McKinney invited four survivors of sexual assault on an uncommon journey. Led by two Alaska Mountaineering School guides and a certified wilderness therapist, the women trekked in the Alaska Range exploring both internal and external terrain.  During the arc of a week’s hike, four women--strangers united by their shared experiences of trauma--learn safety, judgment, leadership, teamwork, and how to navigate their own personal layers of landscape.

Expeditiion Availability

Denali High Camp

AMS still has spaces for private expeditions for 2015 as well.  Launch dates for small teams (4 or fewer climbers) are available between May 26 and June 8th.

Larger groups should contact AMS directly and we can work it out!

Denali, West Buttress,21 days, $7400, 6 climbers:  2-3 guides.   

April 27 - May 17,    5 places available, lead guide: Nate Opp

May 4 - May 24,         4 places available, lead guide: Larry Holmgren

May 8 - May 28,         5 places available, lead guide: Dustin English

May 11 - May 31,      3 places available, lead guide: Todd Passey

May 15 - June 4,       3 places available, lead guide: Noah Ronczkowski

May 18 - June 7,         3 places available, lead guide:  Dan Corn

May 25 - June 14,       5 places available, lead guide: Todd Tumolo
May 26 - June 19,    FULL: Bruce's custom climb, lead guide: TBA
May 27 - June 16,    FULL: Jim and Christain custom climb, lead guide: TBA

May 29 - June 18,       4 places available, lead guide: Alex Stroud

June 1 - June 21,        4 places available, lead guide: Mark Postle

June 9 - June 29,         3 places available, lead guide: Josh Hoeschen
June 12 - July 2,        0 places available, FULL: lead guide: Mike Hamill
June 15 - July 7,          6 places available, lead guide: Beth Cleary
June 23 - July 13,        5 places available, lead guide: TBA
June 24 - July 14,        6 places available, lead guide: Melis Coady
June 25 - July 15,       3 places available, lead guide: Rob Gowler

We have assigned our lead guides for 2015 Denali West Buttress Expeditions.  Please keep in mind that a lot can happen in the several months so we plan for the best,  but can't absolutely guarantee that the assignments will remain as seen below.


Denali, Full West Rib, 21 days, $8400, 4 climbers: 2 guides
June 3-23, 3 places available

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, $ 8400, 4 climbers: 2 guides

May 6 - 26, 4 places available

Denali West Buttress Availibility

Denali, West Buttress

May 10 - May 30     2 spaces available, Guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2       4 spaces available
May 20 - June 9       5 spaces available
May 25 - June 14     6 spaces available

May 27 - June 16     5 spaces available, Guided by Mark Postle

June 3 - June 23       1 spaces available, Guided by Todd Passey
June 10 - June 30     FULL , Guided by Mike Hamill
June 14 - July 4        6 spaces available
June 17 - July 7        5 spaces available
June 23 - July 13      6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17      3 spaces available, Guided by Rob Gowler

 

21 Days, $6800, 6 climbers: 2-3 guides

It was a nice day for a wee spin on the bike today from Lundavra to Nevis Range. Riding with Advanced Certificate in Outdoor Leadership students, getting them ready for a three day tour of Ben Nevis next week, we went along the West Highland Way to Glen Nevis, enjoyed some single track into the glen and along the river bank before a really tough climb up the Peat Track. The awesome descent down the side of Cow Hill took us back to the glen then along the Puggy Line to finish with the Blue Adder at Nevis Range.

All the guys did well and are looking forward to the trip next week. It looks like we might get some colder weather with snow on the tops at the end of next week. I really hope so but I don't really want to be out riding in it either!

Friday Update - Complete Details

Greetings! Another Expedition Full!

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: FULL
May 10-30: FULL (waitlist)
May 17-June 6: FULL (waitlist)
May 24-June 13: FULL
May 31-June 20: 1 space*
June 7-June 27: 1 space - pending
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 1 space
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!
*Special small group, 4 climbers, 2 guides,$6900 per person

Aconcagua, Normal Route, 2010 Availability:
February 8-26, 2010: 6 spaces
Argentina is calling you!

Kahiltna Dome Expedition/Denali Prep Course, 2010 Availability:
June 3-12: 7 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Denali, West Rib, 2010 Availability:
May 29-June 18: 4 spaces. Contact AMS for details!
Custom Dates Available

Denali, Upper West Rib, 2010 Availability:
June 5-June 25: 4 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Other 2010 offerings:
Mountaineering Courses - all dates have availability
Wilderness Hikes & Treks - all dates have availability
Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Workshops - all dates have availability
Wilderness First Responder Courses & Re-certifications - all dates have availability, but the 9-day WFR Course is filling quickly!
Click here for the 2010 Schedule and prices.

Many Custom options are still available. Thinking about Ham & Eggs? The Trolls? Give us a call or send us an email. We're in the office from 10 am to 5pm Monday - Friday, this time of year.

We're enjoying the snow here!
Cheers,
~Julia


The Trolls