AMS Aconcagua team update from Plaza de Mulas, 20 Feb 2011

Check out the video update from the crew just before leaving Base Camp.

Update from South America!

At the hotel in Mendoza
On the trail...
Summit shot from Cerro Bonete, 16, 523 feet

Wow, we just got an email and photos from AMS guide, Tom Torkleson from base camp on Aconcagua.
Tom said that all is well. They arrived at base camp the day before yesterday. They climbed Cerro Bonete today and all made it to the summit. Tomorrow they will carry gear up to Camp Canada (16,300 feet). All members and guides are healthy and happy.

Feb 15 Updates

AMS Climber on Peak 11,300' Ruth Glacier Alaska Range, AMS custom climb.

Julia is away for a few weeks so our dear old friend and the past AMS Admissions manager, Frannie and I are steering the ship at the AMS HQ.

The sun keeps shinning here in Talkeetna and the temperature is creeping up, it was 35 F today. Spring is coming slowly but surely.

The skiing is excellent and the groomers are working hard on the nordic ski trails on the frozen lakes, rivers, and through the birch and spruce forest. Mark your calendar for Saturday, March 20th and come on up to Talkeetna's 25 & 50 K Oosik Nordic Classical Ski Race, super fun for all!

The AMS office is accepting applications and confirming custom climbs for this spring, there will be lots of fun in the Alaska Range this year.

Feel free to contact us if you want to sign up or get a quote for a custom climb.

2010 AMS Current Availability Report:

Wilderness First Responder Course
March 6-14: FULL

WFR Re-certification
March 20-22: 5 spaces available
March 27-29: 9 spaces available

Denali, West Buttress
April 27-May 17: 2 spaces available
May 3- 23: 1 space available
May 10-30: FULL (waitlist)
May 17-June 6: FULL (waitlist)
May 24-June 13: FULL (waitlist)
May 31-June 20: FULL (waitlist)
June 2- June 22: 3 spaces available
June 7-June 27: FULL
June 14-July 4: FULL
June 21-July 11: FULL (waitlist)
July 4- July 24: 5 spaces available

Denali, West Rib
May 29-June 18: 3 spaces available

Denali, Upper West Rib
June 5-June 25: 4 spaces available

12 day Mountaineering Courses
April 18 -29: 5 spaces available
May 14-22: 6 spaces available
June 11-22: 6 spaces available
July 12-23: 9 spaces available
August 9-20: 9 spaces available
September 6-17: 9 spaces available

6 day Mountaineering Courses
All dates have space availability, April - September

Advanced Mountaineering Courses
May 2-13: 2 spaces available
June 23-July4: 4 spaces available

Kahiltna Dome/ Denali Prep Course
June 3-12: 6 spaces available

Custom Programs: space is currently available

Please contact us if you have any questions about our programs, we look forward to being with you in the Alaska Range.

Our office is on Winter Hours, Monday-Friday: 10 am to 5 pm, Alaska Standard Time (4 hours earlier than Eastern Standard Time).

Office phone: 907-733-1016
Office Fax: 907-733-1362,
Email: info@climbalaska.org


Cheers,
Caitlin

Get out and play!

The sun is shining - get out and play!

Here is the current availability for Expeditions, Courses and Workshops in 2011:

Denali - Upper West Rib
May 21 - June 10: 2 spaces available

Denali - West Buttress Expeditions
April 25 - May 15: available
May 2 - 22: available
May 9 - 29: available
May 16 - June 5: (FULL)
May 23 - June 12: (FULL)
May 30 - June 19: available
June 6 - 26: (FULL)
June 13 - July 3: (FULL)
June 20 - July 12: (FULL)

June 27 - July 17: available

Foraker - Sultana Expedition
April 27 - May 13: (FULL)

Advanced Mountaineering Course
May 6 - 17: available

Denali Prep Course/Kahiltna Dome Expedition
June 5-14: available

12 Day Mountaineering Courses
May 8-19: available
June 12-23: available
July 20-31: available
August 14-25: available
September 1-12: available

6 Day Mountaineering Courses
May 26-31: available
June 17-22: available
July 8-13: available
August 1-6: available
September 4-9: available

7 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses
June 30-July 6: available
July 23-29: available
August 12-19: available

4 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses

July 8-11: available
August 1-4: available

Denali Photo Workshop
August 22-27: available

Wilderness First Responder Courses
WFR 70-Hour Course
March 5-13: (FULL)
WFR 3-day Recert
March 19-21: available
March 26-28: available

Custom Courses
Custom Dates: available
Custom Expeditions
Custom Dates: available
A limited number of dates are still available for Denali, contact AMS for details.
Many other custom options are available - all over the Alaska Range!

Check out our Glacier Treks!

Aconcagua Expeditions
January 10 - 28: (FULL, completed)
February 10 - 28: (FULL, in progress)
Contact AMS if you are interested in the 2011/2012 season!

Here is the full schedule for more options.
Call or email AMS if you have any questions!
907-733-1016
info@climbalaska.org
We're in the office Monday-Friday, 10 am - 5 pm Alaska Time.

~Blogger Julia

Denali Traverse Expedition

We are gearing up for a great climbing season.   We are strongly considering adding a Denali Traverse expedition to our schedule this season,  this will be highly efficient team of  4 climbers with 2 to 3 AMS guides.  The dates are May 24 - June 15, 2014.  The cost is $8,000 per person.  We already have 2 very committed team members and are looking for 2 more to round out the team.  This is an opportunity of a lifetime.

The expedition will climb the West Buttress of Denali, and finish at Wonder Lake.  We are looking for team members who are in excellent physical condition and have climbed steep mountaineering routes, that require roped glacier travel, winter snow camping, extensive use of an ice axe and crampons.  Tying knots, coiling ropes and belaying should be second nature.  For the safety of the entire team you need to know how to immediately arrest a fall on a steep slope with pack.  Expect to crampon with a 60+ pound pack on steep slopes.  This climb requires incredible commitment, physical and mental strength and a deep desire to complete the goal.  This is rarely climbed due to the remote wilderness qualities of the North Side of Denali and the hard work it requires.  This expedition is a guide favorite and we would love to climb it this season with a strong team.

If you fit these requirements , we would love to have you join us on our 2014 of Denali.

To apply please send us a completed AMS application and expedition questionnaire, we will review it and enroll you or contact you with questions.  Time is of the essence, we will decide if this is a go within the next couple of weeks.

Our two other technical climbs also have availability.

Foraker,  May 17 - June 6,  1 space

West Rib, June 3 - 23,  2 spaces

No change in the weather pattern or climbing conditions over the last few days apart from the snow line has descended to sea level! This is the first time this winter that we've had snow down to sea level and we've barely had a frost. However, we've not seen as much snow on the hills for very many years.

Rintje and I had an aborted attempt on North Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor on Monday - I forgot my crampons so we had to go all the way back down again with no climbing. Yesterday Rintje and Gareth climbed 999 on the side of Gearr Aonach which was fun. Andy and Michael waded in and swam up North Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor.

Today Rintje and I went up Ben Nevis. We walked from North Face car park as there is too much snow on the track to drive up in my van. The wind was more from the SE already so we were careful in how we got to the foot of Gutless on Douglas Boulder. The climb was great, the ice nice and the snow quite firm after leaving the chimney. We made the abseil from Douglas Boulder in quite violent gusts of wind and got back down to find Rintje's rucksack had been blown away.

If you find an orange North Face rucksack with only a couple of things in it please let me know. Unfortunately it is probably under quite a lot of snow already.

A brave team went up under Number Five Gully and climbed The Curtain. They said the ice was very nice on the second pitch. They also said they had been avalanched but this is not surprising in a High avalanche hazard!

Expedition Availability

Otis and Trixie wait at the Post Office while Laura checks the mail...is your application on the way?

Denali, West Buttress

May 6 - May 26     4 spaces available, guide TBA, special ratio: 4 climbers: 2 guides $7900, 21 days

All below climbs will have 6 climbers: 2-3 guides, $6800, 21 days
May 10 - May 30    2 spaces available, guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2      4 spaces available, guided by Todd Tumolo
May 20 - June 9      3 spaces available, guided by Nate Opp
May 25 - June 14    2 spaces available, guided by Nick D'Alessio
May 27 - June 16    4 spaces available, guided by Mark Postle
June 3 - June 23      FULL, guided by Todd Passey (wait list available)
June 10 - June 30    FULL, guided by Mike Hamill (wait list available)
June 14 - July 4       4 spaces available, guided by Mike Janes
June 17 - July 7       3 spaces available. guided by Josh Hoeschen
June 23 - July 13     6 spaces available, guided by Joey McBrayer
June 27 - July 17     FULL, guided by Rob Gowler (wait list available)

Denali, Upper West Rib - 21 Days, $7900, 4 climbers: 2 guides 
June 7 - June 27,    FULL

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Guided by Melis Coady
May 17 - June 2,   FULL  
17 Days, $6800, 4 climbers: 2 guides