Safari Time!

The 2013 AMS/CWVC Kilimanjaro Team has fully descended the mountain safely and returned to their hotel.  Now have begun the safari portion of their expedition.

For me, this part of the expedition is such a great reward for all the hard work of the climb, and I imagine this team feels the same way.

Here are some photos that speak for themselves from AMS guide Colby Coombs.

~Caitlin

Around the Office...

We continue to busy here at AMS headquarters on 3rd Street.

Guides Joey McBrayer and Karl Swanson have been packing for upcoming trips to the arctic as logistics/field safety officers for a film. We've been hired by the BBC for work on a television show about folks who live in very remote villages of Alaska.

Sometimes I do get out from under the paperwork and computer...yesterday my friend Danial (Talkeetna Air Taxi pilot and mechanic) and I skijored up the Susitna River. It was fantastic.

Laura

It can be a trick getting the dogs hooked up and not tangled.

It's fun skiing through town and out to the river.

Packing!

Joey does some office logistics!

At last we had a cold, dry day with some sunshine. I came home with dry gloves and a big smile on my (wind blown) face. Neil, Dan and I went up Ledge Route, abseiled into Number Five Gully to see how snow bollards work and came back down Ledge Route. They want to have a go at the Matterhorn in the future so climbing down stuff will be a good skill to have.

Where the wind has scoured the slopes, the snow is quite firm. This is the case on Ledge Route and will be the same on NE Buttress. Anywhere sheltered where the snow has been collecting now has deep, dense windslab on it making travel hard work and a bit hazardous.

From what I saw today Route One on Carn Dearg Buttress  was climbed, NE Buttress, Tower Ridge, Gutless and SW Ridge of Douglas Boulder. Green Hollow Route was climbed and a good team found the ice ran out on Newbiggin's Route Far Right Variation. The Shroud is a bit fatter and now has two columns touching down. Strong wind, cold temperatures and lots more snowfall at the weekend.

2010 Blog Evaluation

As we go into next season, we reminisce the feedback from last,..

Hello Everyone,

My name is Tony Lutes, I'm a member and boardmember of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska. I have a few buds climbing Denali this season and just wanted to tell you that your blog has been a valuable and reassuring tool in keeping up with the conditions and overall success of the 2010 climbing season on Denali. Although my buds are not climbing with you guys, just knowing that there is a group up on the mountain at the same time is always a secure feeling. Anyone that wants to get into or has gotten into mountaineering, and probably not just in Alaska, knows the reputation of AMS and the fact that this is the best way to ensure a safe, professional, the most skillful way into the mountains of Alaska. Thank you for the updates of the blog and I hope one day to get into a class of yours, but even if I don't, I will confidently, always point anyone in your direction.

Stay warm and climb safe!

Sincerely,

Tony Lutes

Kilimanjaro Pictures!

AMS guide Colby Coombs just sent this photos in to us from Tanzania.  It looks like they had an amazing adventure on the Rongai Route.  These photos show their awesome effort and teamwork.  What a great trip.  They are now on the safari leg of their adventure, the safari is a wild adventure of its own.

Cheers,
Laura and Caitlin

Weathering a storm below the summit.

Billy Costello trying to get his boot off this prosthetic leg.

Billy and Pete Quintanilla on Day One of the approach.

Vic "Yeti" Thibeault

Will Wilson and Dave Olson near the summit.

View from the Top!

Will Wilson....with his leg and the painted toenails done by manacurist Lisle three years ago!

Tom Barnhill and Yeti

Getting some help on the descent.

All the porters and guides holding up the Explorer's and Combat Wounded Veteran's flags...taken just last night.

Moonlight Skiing

It is a Wolf Moon, how do locals celebrate? Some stay up late and howl, Denali Nordic Ski club is celebrating by skiing 25K tonight. They are practicing for the Oosik Ski Race, which is scheduled for March 20, here in (near) Talkeetna, it's 25 & 50K.

We're howling about enrollments here, the Wilderness First Responder 70-hour Course is nearly full! If you have been procrastinating, get that registration form to us ASAP! We usually have a waiting list, and occasionally some last-minute cancellations.

There is still some room on the WFR Challenge/Recertification sessions, but this is no reason to procrastinate; send in your registration form today! They usually fill quickly, in a burst of speed. We'll keep the waiting list going for you who do decide to put it off. Do you need to be certified for work? Your employer may even help you pay for it.

It's not too late to sign up for March or April Programs:
8 day Mountaineering Course, March 13-20 ("Spring Break Special" contact AMS for details)
Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Workshop, April 10 & 11
6 day Mountaineering Course, April 16-21
12 day Mountaineering Course, April 18-29
Denali West Buttress, April 27-May 17

Here is the full run-down...
2010 Denali, West Buttress Expedition Availability:
April 27- May 17: 2 places Available
May 3- 23: FULL
May 10-30: FULL (waitlist)
May 17-June 6: FULL (waitlist)
May 24-June 13: FULL (waitlist)
May 31-June 20: FULL (waitlist)
June 2 -June 22: 4 places Available
June 7-June 27: FULL (waitlist)
June 14-July 4: FULL (waitlist)
June 21-July 11: FULL (waitlist)

July 4-July 24: 4 places Available

Denali, West Rib, 2010 Availability:
May 29-June 18: 3 spaces. Contact AMS for details, this is the famed "full" West Rib!
Custom Dates Available

Denali, Upper West Rib, 2010 Availability:
June 5-June 25: 4 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Kahiltna Dome Expedition/Denali Prep Course, 2010 Availability:
June 3-12: 6 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Wilderness First Responder Course, 2010
March 6-14: 5 spaces available

WFR Re-certifications, 2010
March 20-22: 8 spaces available
March 27-29: 10 spaces available

Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Workshops, 2010
April 10-11: 6 spaces available
There are also sessions in July and August.

Alaska Range Mountaineering Courses, 6 days, 2010 Availability
April 16-21: 7 spaces
May 7-12: 8 spaces
June 4-9: 8 spaces
The sessions in July, August & September have availability.

Alaska Range Mountaineering Courses, 12 days, 2010 Availability
April 18-29: 6 spaces
May 14-25: 6 spaces
June 11-22: 7 spaces
The sessions in July, August & September have availability.

Alaska Range Advanced Mountaineering Courses, 12 days, 2010 Availability
May 2-13: 3 spaces
June 23-July 4: 4 spaces

Things change quickly! Applications show up every day. If you are uncertain of your schedule but you are interested in participating, stay in touch with us: info@climbalaska.org or 907-733-1016. Leave us a message if we don't answer, we'll get back to you as soon as we can.

Have a good weekend!
~Julia

P.S. Spammers, don't bother leaving comments, we are watching you.

Professional Photographer and AMS Graduate Norio Matsumoto

Norio Matsumoto has been photographing the Alaska range for 16 years! He flies onto the Whistler glacier overlooking the Ruth Gorge and Denali and photographs the northern lights. His idea is to get a shot of a powerfully red aurora with Denali front lit by a full moon in the foreground. 

Typically Norio will build a snow cave and spend 50-days each winter camped by himself working on this photography assignment. He flew into today and won't fly out until March 20th.

Norio Matsumoto:AMS Denali West Buttress graduate, class of 2004!

Today, Norio flew into the glacier with company. A popular japanese television show "Johnetsu-Tairiku" will be featuring him a TV documentary series this March. Norio will be the focus of a 1/2 hour segment on his adventures and works.

A two person film crew from the production company Ortus Japan has been following and filming Norio since November. This trip into the range will be the capstone of their efforts.

AMS guide Larry Holmgren will join the crew this week to provide field safety services for the film crew. They had perfect weather today and the aurora forecast is moderate for tonight. The team was actually able to film some of the northern lights from Talkeetna before they left.

We wish them warms days and clear nights for this exciting project. There is only on other person in the mountain range right now- another Japanese climber, Matsitoshi, who is on his 8th attempt of a solo winter ascent of Mt. Hunter.

Jun, Norio, and Gaku before their flight.

You can see some of his work on his website: http://braingiants.com/noriomatsumoto/gallery.html

Many of his photographs are also for sale at the Talkeetna Air Taxi gallery in downtown Talkeetna.

The weather was not as good as forecast so Mick and I went for a very good second option on Ben Nevis. First option was NE Buttress in the afternoon sunshine, second option was Gutless on Douglas Boulder. There is some ice on Gutless and the chimney section was very good fun with a great bit of bridging to escape the chimney. The steep neve to the belay ledge was quite disturbing though with no protection for 12m or so and no secure axe placements. We went over to the SW Ridge and joined a few other teams going up this. 

Some big avalanches have released recently from the west side of Tower Ridge leaving behind big crown walls under Garadh Gully and Vanishing Gully. The Castle Gullies went twice and reached the half way lochain path both times! SE winds are very good for making big avalanches on Ben Nevis. On the plus side The Shroud has touched down!

The trench in the snow up to Coire nan Lochan is now well established as another big squad from the international meet went up there today. Mick and I went up to climb Scabbard Chimney but with all the climbers in the coire we ended up being the second team on the route. Scabbard Chimney is a mixed route that is best with a bit of neve - today it was entirely neve and ice so the climbing was quite straightforward. It felt a grade easier than normal but I do feel more confident on ice. There was even quite reasonable protection which is not too hard to dig out. The snow and ice come away from the rock easily enough.

We made the quick abseil down to the foot of The Tempest and back down to climb Specter. This is also climbed all on neve and ice with rock protection and ice screws. Two great climbs and good company. Most of the big climbs in the coire were being tackled today including Unicorn. Great craic seeing visitors from around the word enjoying some of the best climbs in great conditions.

Expedition Availability

Climbers regroup on Denali's West Rib:
a remote, steep, and rewarding climb to Denali's summit.

We hope to climb with you this season! We still have a few availabilities for custom expeditions.

Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides

April 27 - May 17, 2 spaces, Guide: Dan Corn

May 3 - May 23, FULL, Custom Expedition
May 5 - May 25, 3 spaces, Guide: Leighan Falley

May 9 - May 29, 2 spaces, Guide: Wes Bunch

May 11 - May 31, FULL

May 12 - June 1, 3 spaces, Guide: Mark Postle

May 19 - June 8, FULL

May 23 - June 12, 4 spaces, Guide: Todd Tumolo
May 25- June 14, FULL Custom Expedition

May 26 - June 15, FULL

May 26 - June 15, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Forest Wagner

June 2 - June 22,  2 spaces, Guide: Nick D'Alessio
June 8 - June 28, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Mark Postle
June 8 - June 28, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Colby Coombs 

June 9 - June 29, FULL

June 12 - July 2, 3 spaces, Guide:Mike Hamill

June 16 - July 6, 4 spaces

June 22 - July 12, FULL Custom Expedition

June 23 - July 13, FULL Custom  Expedition, Guide: Melis Coady

June 25 - July 15, 1 space, Guide: Rob Gowler

Denali,  West Rib, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides

June 3 - June 23, 3 spaces, Guide: Todd Passey

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides

May 17 - June 6, 1 space, Guide: Melis Coady

Please note that lead guide positions are secured as best as possible, but changes can occur due to injury, illness, or other things beyond AMS' control. Rest assured, that if a change occurs, AMS guides are a highly skilled collective of professionals in their field.

What does Alaska and Pakistan have in common?

Insanely large landscape changing avalanches for one! Our thoughts go out to our buddies in Valdez dealing with this catastrophe.

Team Aconcagua

This just in from the team leader Joe Brown,

"You guys make the climb easy through your knowledge and ease to work with. Both times (Denali and Aconcagua) I have walked away a better soldier after spending time with you and your crew. With our busy schedules I would not return to a company or service provider if the fit was not perfect. Tom Torkelson and Nick D'Alessio made eight soldiers smarter dealing with altitude and logistics to sustain a small element in the mountains."

The hills have been buried in snow! Steady rain last night fell as snow above 500m and lots of it came down. Sarah and I went up to Stob Coire nan Lochan to climb Raeburn's Route on Central Buttress  which worked out to be a good decision. The crag faces East so in this SE wind it seemed like a good bet to avoid the avalanches. We also arrived just after a big team from the BMC Scottish Winter Climbing Meet so there was a very nice trail (trench) all the way to the routes!

Only the very last we bit to the routes was spooky for the avalanche hazard but I was not keen to go any where near Broad Gully, SC or NC Gullies. The crag was very white, well frozen and with lots of smears of ice on it. Thinner patches of the old snow have firmed up a bit and are quite nice now but there is still a lot of soft neve. The stars of the climbing world were on big routes such as Inclination, Central Grooves, Scabbard Chimney and Crest Route. Looks like we might get a few days of slightly drier and colder Easterly winds before the mixed weather returns for the weekend so the international meet teams will hopefully be able to get some great climbs done.

Kilimanjaro!

AMS guide Colby Coombs called in with a report.

Yesterday the team topped out on Kilimanjaro's Crater Rim, 5,685 meters at 4:00 pm local time.  They put in a hardworking 16 hour day of climbing steep trail, around boulders and then descended loose scree.

Due to some previous compilations Danny and Arlene chose to stay at high camp. 

The whole team is descending to the green of lower elevations right now and are ALL feeling good.

Well done team, we are proud of you all for a job well done.

Cheers,
Caitlin

WFR's, Courses and Expeditions are Filling. Don't Delay, Call Today!

If you need to take a full Wilderness First Responder Course...we have only one spot left. If you need to renew, hurry, as few spaces remain.

Here is the current availability for Expeditions, Courses and Workshops in 2011:

Aconcagua Expeditions
January 10 - 28: (FULL)
February 10 - 28: (FULL)

Foraker - Sultana Expedition
April 27 - May 13: (FULL)

Denali - Upper West Rib
May 21 - June 10: 2 spaces available

Denali - West Buttress Expeditions
April 25 - May 15
May 2 - 22
May 9 - 29
May 16 - June 5: (FULL)
May 23 - June 12: (FULL)
May 30 - June 19: (FULL)
June 6 - 26
June 13 - July 3
June 20 - July 12: (FULL)

June 27 - July 17

Advanced Mountaineering Course
May 6 - 17

Denali Prep Course/Kahiltna Dome
June 5-14

12 Day Mountaineering Courses

6 Day Mountaineering Courses

7 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses
4 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses

Denali Photo Workshop
August 22-27

Wilderness First Responder Courses
WFR 70-Hour Course
March 5-13, One Space Left!
WFR 3-day Recert
March 19-21
March 26-28

Custom Courses
Custom Expeditions
A limited number of dates are still available for Denali, contact AMS for details.
Many other custom options are available - all over the Alaska Range!

Check out our Glacier Treks!

Here is the full schedule for more options.
Call or email AMS if you have any questions!
907-733-1016
info@climbalaska.org
We're in the office Monday-Friday, 10 am - 5 pm Alaska Time.

Let is snow!
~blogger Laura

CWVC Kilimajaro Update

AMS Guide Colby Coombs phoned in last night.  It was their morning and they had begun their summit day attempt.  This is the steepest and by far the most demanding part of this climb.  They were feeling strong and Master Chief Will Wilson was leading the pack for their start out of camp.  It was planned to be a very, very long day as it is for each and every climber of Kilimanjaro.

Colby said "Here we are just looking out over Africa.  There is a thin cloud layer below us and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful day to be on Kilimanjaro."

Upon return from this long day, they will stay at high camp another night and then begin their descent.

All Best,
Caitlin

AMS upgrades washing station.

A lot goes into making an expedition successful. At AMS we like to improve on the areas in our control. Hygiene is imperative as lack of it is the number one cause of illness for the entire group on any expedition. One of our winter projects this year was to install a commercial dishwasher. We have a 3 basin sink in order to wash, rinse, and disinfect all our cook gear. The new dishwasher has a rinse cycle of 180 degrees F which insures everything coming out of the field is as clean as possible for the next expedition. AMS is committed to always improving in order to be at the top of our game.

Kilimajaro Rongai Route Photo

Here is a photo of our CWVC team's route, they are following the red line, click on photo to view as a larger image!

Kilimanjaro Update

AMS Guide Colby Coombs called in last night (their morning) as he and the Combat Wounded Veteran Challenge Team were on their way to high camp.  It will be a long day of about 6 hours on the trail.

He said that yesterday they all made it in good time to camp 3 and he called it an easy day to get there.  In the mountains its nice to have some short easy days that nearly feel like a rest day while you are still making upward progress.

We are super proud of this team and are anxiously awaiting the next report.

We will keep you posted!

All Best,
Caitlin

With rain hammering on the van, the wind blowing waterfalls back uphill and a couple of flashes of lightening, we were not keen to get going this morning. But after half an hour of swithering we finally got out and got going. It rained for half an hour more but it was then mostly dry for the rest of the day and the wind was not so bad most of the time. Donald and I went up to Church Door Buttress with Al, Bob, Rich and Bram - Donald, Rich and Bram climbed Crypt Route while Al, Bob and I climbed Flake Route.

It cooled down during the day but the snow was still wet and mushy. When it freezes it will make some fantastic ice. Donald emerged from Crypt Route as we got to The Arch and the final chimney which was well iced and good fun. It was a proper Scottish day with rain then freezing conditions, spindrift, squalls, soft snow, good ice, frozen ropes and good company. Fantastic!

Expedition and Course Availability

It is a cold and clear day in Talkeetna today but the Alaska Range got a dump of snow in the last couple of days...getting it all ready for the climbing season!

Denali, West Buttress

May 6 - May 26     4 spaces available, guide TBA, special ratio: 4 climbers: 2 guides $7900, 21 days

All below climbs will have 6 climbers: 2-3 guides, $6800, 21 days
May 10 - May 30    2 spaces available, guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2      4 spaces available, guided by Todd Tumolo
May 20 - June 9      3 spaces available, guided by Nate Opp
May 25 - June 14    3 spaces available, guided by Nick D'Alessio
May 27 - June 16    2 spaces available, guided by Mark Postle
June 3 - June 23      FULL, guided by Todd Passey (wait list available)
June 10 - June 30    FULL, guided by Mike Hamill (wait list available)
June 14 - July 4       4 spaces available, guided by Mike Janes
June 17 - July 7       3 spaces available. guided by Josh Hoeschen
June 23 - July 13     6 spaces available, guided by Joey McBrayer
June 27 - July 17     FULL, guided by Rob Gowler (wait list available)

Denali, Upper West Rib - 21 Days, $7900, 4 climbers: 2 guides 
May 3 - 23, 3 spaces available 
June 7 - June 27,    FULL 

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Guided by Melis Coady
May 17 - June 2,   FULL  
17 Days, $6800, 4 climbers: 2 guides

MOUNTAINEERING COURSES

Denali Prep Course
9 students, 2-3 instructors, $3100
June 2 -11

Twelve Day Mountaineering
 9 students, 2-3 instructors, $2950

April 22 - May 3, 8 spaces left
May 7 -18, 6 spaces left
June 4 - 15, 8 spaces left
July 9 - 20, 9 spaces left
August 3 -14, 6 spaces left
September 1-12, 9 spaces left

Fifteen Day Mountaineering
  ~A new course that combines flying into and hiking out of the Alaska Range!
 9 students, 2-3 instructors, $3300
July 9 - 23, 8 spaces left
 
Six Day Mountaineering
9 students, 2-3 instructors, $2150
April 28 - May 3
May 14 - 19
June 18 -23
July 21 -26
August 18 -23
September 2 -7

Advanced Mountaineering  ~We only take six students on this course and it does fill up!
 6 students, 2 instructors, $3500
May 1 - 12

Mountain Guides Course ~ A great step to help launch your guiding career.

We offer this course only every few years and this is the year!
Up to 6 students: 2 instructors, $3500