It was a proper Scottish winter climbing day today with all the challenges that involves! Chris, Martin and I climbed Tower Ridge last year under blue skies and on solid crispy snow. Today we climbed NE Buttress in the white room on soft snow and got quite soggy. It was a top day.

We approached by Slingsby's Chimney which is well filled in and makes for a quick way up to the First Platform. The route has some great solid snow on it low down and very few rocks sticking out for belays. A month ago The Man Trap gave the only two technical moves on the whole route. Today there is only one due to the build up of snow at its foot. If you want some ice climbing at the weekend you might try the Minus Face. Routes on Minus Three Buttress looked good today and had the wind blowing onto them. Lots more snow fell last night and today so walking down was a real test of navigation.

Expedition Availability

It is a beautiful sunny day here in Talkeetna,  this weather reminds us that soon we will be busy with climbers.  We hope you will join us this season!

Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides, $7000

April 27 - May 17, 2 climber positions available, Guide: Dan Corn

May 3 - May 23, FULL, Custom Expedition
May 5 - May 25, FULL, positions available, Guide: Leighan Falley

May 9 - May 29, 2 climber positions available, Guide: Wes Bunch

May 11 - May 31, 6 climber positions available

May 12 - June 1, 3 climber positions available, Guide: Mark Postle

May 23 - June 12, 3climber positions available, Guide: Nate Opp
May 25- June 14, FULL Custom Expedition

May 26 - June 15, FULL Guide: Dustin English

May 26 - June 15, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Forest Wagner
May 27 - June 16, FULL Custom Expedition Guide: Mike Janes

June 2 - June 22,  2 climber positions available, Guide: Nick D'Alessio
June 8 - June 28, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Mark Postle
June 8 - June 28, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Colby Coombs 
June 9 - June 29, FULL

June 12 - July 2, 2 climber positions available, Guide: Mike Hamill

June 16 - July 6, 1 climber positions available Guide: Todd Tumolo

June 22 - July 12, FULL Custom Expedition

June 23 - July 13, FULL Custom  Expedition, Guide: Melis Coady

June 25 - July 15, 1 climber positions available, Guide: Rob Gowler

Denali,  West Rib, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides, $8200

June 3 - June 23, 2 climber positions available, Guide: Todd Passey

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides, $8200

May 17 - June 6, 1 climber position available, Guide: Melis Coady

Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith have come to mind quite a lot this winter. Jimmy said the best ice for climbing with one ice axe, cutting steps and hand holds as you go, is firm snow. Hard ice is too much work for reasonable progress. With the constant soft conditions this winter I've been using my hands much more than I might normally when the snow and ice is strong enough to hold a pick. This year I've been holding, pushing, bridging and hoping a whole lot more than normal. Today though, I got my crampons into some well frozen, icy snow and it was a joy!

Bryn and I climbed Castle Ridge, an excellent climb and a popular choice today. The freezing level came down during the day but the snow on the crux mixed section was not very good. Most teams on the route missed out this section which is around to the right and not very obvious. Since there is a lot of snow this year it is more simple to go straight up big snowy ledges. However, the crux is spectacular and well worth finding. The snow on the descent, in the wind and quite high up, was well frozen, hard and icy. Hopefully all the snow on the big faces and gullies will freeze hard too. Still looking like quite a cold and dry weekend.

WFR Filling, Murray Nash, Wounded Warriors

Quick Update:

Wilderness First Responder Course
March 6-14: FULL

WFR Re-certification
March 20-22: FULL
March 27-29: 5 spaces available. Click here for registration form.

Wounded Warriors have gained National Attention!
Marc Hoffmeister has been awarded the National Geographic Adventurer of the Year Award!
http://ngadventure.typepad.com/blog/2010/02/readers-choice-adventurer-of-the-year-the-votes-are-in.html

Local Surveyor & Musician Murray Nash plays with Rare Form, the Simpletones, Rick Shaw & the Transporters (AKA the AMS party band!) & more. There will be a fundraiser for him on Saturday, February 27 at the Sheldon Community Arts Hangar (downtown Talkeetna). Silent Auction & community potluck from 5 to 8pm, Live Auction from 8 to 9 pm, with lots of live music from many bands! The party & fundraising will move to the Fairview after 9pm. More details here.
See you there!

We will be back in the office on Monday, have a good weekend!
Get well soon Murray!!
~Julia

Despite the forecast, today was a very pleasant day. Bryn and I walked up to Coire nan Lochan in sunshine surrounded by deer and buzzards. Snow capped peaks and blue sky set it of very nicely. There were a few showers during the day but over all it was very nice.

The temperature did rise during the day so the snow was wet of sloppy. We had another fall of fresh snow last night to fill in the gaps! Raeburn's Route on central Buttress has some firm snow though and the climbing was good. The rocks are less covered now after a few warmer days so finding protection is slightly easier.

With the slight thaw the snow felt a bit precarious and the ice was falling off the rocks. All the routes looked quite white and you could have done some mixed climbing today but most people were climbing the easier ridges; Dorsal Arete, Boomerang Arete and Raeburn's Route. The forecast for the weekend looks promising - there is a chance that this wet snow will freeze into the crispy snow-ice we've been dreaming of all winter so far!

WFR Update

Just a quick note - WFR Recert spaces are going fast!

Wilderness First Responder Course
March 6-14: FULL

WFR Re-certification
March 20-22: FULL
March 27-29: 7 spaces available

~Julia

It was a nice bright start to today but with stronger winds and snow forecast for the afternoon few people went up very high on Ben Nevis. The snow was a litle firmer since the temperature was down a degree or two but there is still some soft and wind blown snow about. A large avalanche came down from The Cascade area into the coire yesterday as we crossed Tower Gap that is yet another very big pile of avalanche debris now.

When the snow does finally settle down there will be some enormous cornices to deal with! When you look at the picture above remember that Point Five Gully is 300m to give you some scale on the size of the cornice! There are cornices above many long sections of cliff tops and gullies. Getting out of Green Gully could be tricky just now!

Because of the limited range of climbs safe to tackle at the moment they are getting busy sometimes. Bryn and I climbed SW Ridge of Douglas Boulder today along with most other climbing teams on Ben Nevis including some charismatic French folk. A little patience is useful when it gets very busy. I was overtaken then held up all day by one team which seemed a little unnecessary. The Curtain was climbed today along with a small selection of other routes.

The Fort William Mountain Festival was a brilliant event last week that took up quite a bit of my time. Normal blogging service will resume now that it is all done and dusted for another year.

Yesterday was very wet and warmer than we've had it so far this winter. Consequently some big avalanches released. There were a couple out of the Castle Coire, Number Five Gully and Observatory Gully both released too. It did cool down a little today but not as much as was hoped for. With more fresh snow falling today and soft cornices forming quickly there were a few more avalanches during the day. A big slide down from the Cascade area was observed and another on the Little Brenva Face caught some climbers on the face resulting in some injuries. The snow is not settled yet!

I was very happy to be on a ridge climb today. Tower Ridge made a great climb today for Kieran, Ger and Jim with Louisa and me. The ridge is almost unrecognisable due to the depth of snow on it and I belayed in very different places to those I've used before. Most of it is quite simple but the Great Tower is as tricky as ever.

The old snow was frozen on the summit with extra wind chill but the freezing level seemed to be up at about 1300m. The Red Burn is a very easy way down at the moment but even here there are some large blocks of snow that fell off the cornice running up the south edge of the gully. The crossing of the Red Burn on the Pony Track is completely banked out and looks quite intimidating for walkers expecting to follow a trail. It's going to be another breezy week with yet more snow fall.

Feb 23 Update

February is still warm here in Talkeetna! We're hoping trail conditions continue to be good for the Oosik ski race and the Iditarod!

2010 AMS Current Availability Report:
Lots of changes since last week!

Wilderness First Responder Course
March 6-14: FULL

WFR Re-certification
March 20-22: 1 space available
March 27-29: 9 spaces available

Denali, West Buttress
April 27-May 17: 2 spaces available
May 3- 23: 1 space available
May 10-30: FULL (waitlist)
May 17-June 6: FULL (waitlist)
May 24-June 13: FULL (waitlist)
May 31-June 20: FULL (waitlist)
June 2- June 22: 2 spaces available
June 7-June 27: FULL
June 14-July 4: FULL
June 21-July 11: FULL (waitlist)
July 4- July 24: 5 spaces available

Denali, West Rib
May 29-June 18: 3 spaces available

Denali, Upper West Rib
June 5-June 25: 4 spaces available

12 day Mountaineering Courses
April 18 -29: 5 spaces available
May 14-22: 5 spaces available
June 11-22: 6 spaces available
July 12-23: 9 spaces available
August 9-20: 8 spaces available
September 6-17: 9 spaces available

6 day Mountaineering Courses
All dates have space availability, April - September

Advanced Mountaineering Courses
May 2-13: FULL
June 23-July4: 4 spaces available

Kahiltna Dome/ Denali Prep Course
June 3-12: 5 spaces available

Custom Programs: space is currently available

Please contact us if you have any questions about our programs or click on the links above.
We look forward to being with you in the Alaska Range!

Our office is on Winter Hours, Monday-Friday: 10 am to 5 pm, Alaska Standard Time (4 hours earlier than Eastern Standard Time).

Office phone: 907-733-1016
Office Fax: 907-733-1362
Email: info@climbalaska.org

Cheers,
~Blogger Julia

Aconcagua Update!

AMS Guide, Tom Torkelson called in from high camp this afternoon. They are ready to go to the summit tomorrow but are battling some "pretty heavy weather." They'll see how it goes. All are healthy and well. He signed off saying, "gotta go make more water."

Seems Like Summer!

Despite all of the snow on the ground and coming out of the sky today...we are a busy bunch at AMS.
We've been building boxes and packing food for a northside Muldrow Denali Expedition in June. In early March, these boxes of food and gear will get transported via dog team to McGonagall Pass. Then our climbers, descendents of the Stuck-Karstens-Harper 1913 Expedition, we'lll climb the same route come June in honor of the 100th Anniversary of the first ascent of Mount McKinley (Denali.)
Laura was packing food, Joey was building boxes and Bobbi was covering the office.

Unloading all of the food...

Now what?

Joey McBrayer starts building boxes...

Laura packs and Joey screws around...

Rivet and Rudder are great sled dogs and probably could haul the gear, but we've hired professionals for the task.

Dr. Peter Hackett Honored

Dr. Hackett is the recipient of the prestigious David A. Sowles Memorial Award, granted through the American Alpine Club. The honor is given to mountaineers who distinguish themselves, with unselfish devotion at personal risk or sacrifice for a major objective, and in going the assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in the mountains.

Peter is AMS' Medical Director and co-author of our Backcountry Medical Protocols. He is a world authority on high-altitude medicine and physiology and has contributed much of his life to understanding altitude-related illnesses.

Congratulations to Peter,  we are proud to be associated with such a fine person!

AMS Aconcagua team update from Plaza de Mulas, 20 Feb 2011

Check out the video update from the crew just before leaving Base Camp.

Update from South America!

At the hotel in Mendoza
On the trail...
Summit shot from Cerro Bonete, 16, 523 feet

Wow, we just got an email and photos from AMS guide, Tom Torkleson from base camp on Aconcagua.
Tom said that all is well. They arrived at base camp the day before yesterday. They climbed Cerro Bonete today and all made it to the summit. Tomorrow they will carry gear up to Camp Canada (16,300 feet). All members and guides are healthy and happy.

Feb 15 Updates

AMS Climber on Peak 11,300' Ruth Glacier Alaska Range, AMS custom climb.

Julia is away for a few weeks so our dear old friend and the past AMS Admissions manager, Frannie and I are steering the ship at the AMS HQ.

The sun keeps shinning here in Talkeetna and the temperature is creeping up, it was 35 F today. Spring is coming slowly but surely.

The skiing is excellent and the groomers are working hard on the nordic ski trails on the frozen lakes, rivers, and through the birch and spruce forest. Mark your calendar for Saturday, March 20th and come on up to Talkeetna's 25 & 50 K Oosik Nordic Classical Ski Race, super fun for all!

The AMS office is accepting applications and confirming custom climbs for this spring, there will be lots of fun in the Alaska Range this year.

Feel free to contact us if you want to sign up or get a quote for a custom climb.

2010 AMS Current Availability Report:

Wilderness First Responder Course
March 6-14: FULL

WFR Re-certification
March 20-22: 5 spaces available
March 27-29: 9 spaces available

Denali, West Buttress
April 27-May 17: 2 spaces available
May 3- 23: 1 space available
May 10-30: FULL (waitlist)
May 17-June 6: FULL (waitlist)
May 24-June 13: FULL (waitlist)
May 31-June 20: FULL (waitlist)
June 2- June 22: 3 spaces available
June 7-June 27: FULL
June 14-July 4: FULL
June 21-July 11: FULL (waitlist)
July 4- July 24: 5 spaces available

Denali, West Rib
May 29-June 18: 3 spaces available

Denali, Upper West Rib
June 5-June 25: 4 spaces available

12 day Mountaineering Courses
April 18 -29: 5 spaces available
May 14-22: 6 spaces available
June 11-22: 6 spaces available
July 12-23: 9 spaces available
August 9-20: 9 spaces available
September 6-17: 9 spaces available

6 day Mountaineering Courses
All dates have space availability, April - September

Advanced Mountaineering Courses
May 2-13: 2 spaces available
June 23-July4: 4 spaces available

Kahiltna Dome/ Denali Prep Course
June 3-12: 6 spaces available

Custom Programs: space is currently available

Please contact us if you have any questions about our programs, we look forward to being with you in the Alaska Range.

Our office is on Winter Hours, Monday-Friday: 10 am to 5 pm, Alaska Standard Time (4 hours earlier than Eastern Standard Time).

Office phone: 907-733-1016
Office Fax: 907-733-1362,
Email: info@climbalaska.org


Cheers,
Caitlin

Get out and play!

The sun is shining - get out and play!

Here is the current availability for Expeditions, Courses and Workshops in 2011:

Denali - Upper West Rib
May 21 - June 10: 2 spaces available

Denali - West Buttress Expeditions
April 25 - May 15: available
May 2 - 22: available
May 9 - 29: available
May 16 - June 5: (FULL)
May 23 - June 12: (FULL)
May 30 - June 19: available
June 6 - 26: (FULL)
June 13 - July 3: (FULL)
June 20 - July 12: (FULL)

June 27 - July 17: available

Foraker - Sultana Expedition
April 27 - May 13: (FULL)

Advanced Mountaineering Course
May 6 - 17: available

Denali Prep Course/Kahiltna Dome Expedition
June 5-14: available

12 Day Mountaineering Courses
May 8-19: available
June 12-23: available
July 20-31: available
August 14-25: available
September 1-12: available

6 Day Mountaineering Courses
May 26-31: available
June 17-22: available
July 8-13: available
August 1-6: available
September 4-9: available

7 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses
June 30-July 6: available
July 23-29: available
August 12-19: available

4 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses

July 8-11: available
August 1-4: available

Denali Photo Workshop
August 22-27: available

Wilderness First Responder Courses
WFR 70-Hour Course
March 5-13: (FULL)
WFR 3-day Recert
March 19-21: available
March 26-28: available

Custom Courses
Custom Dates: available
Custom Expeditions
Custom Dates: available
A limited number of dates are still available for Denali, contact AMS for details.
Many other custom options are available - all over the Alaska Range!

Check out our Glacier Treks!

Aconcagua Expeditions
January 10 - 28: (FULL, completed)
February 10 - 28: (FULL, in progress)
Contact AMS if you are interested in the 2011/2012 season!

Here is the full schedule for more options.
Call or email AMS if you have any questions!
907-733-1016
info@climbalaska.org
We're in the office Monday-Friday, 10 am - 5 pm Alaska Time.

~Blogger Julia