Expedition Availability

Another very busy day in Talkeetna!  The weather has been great!

Today Director Caitlin Palmer and some friends flew to the Ruth Glacier to enjoy some fun and relaxation in the Mountain House.  

All packed and ready to go!

Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides, scheduled, $7,000 USD
 

April 27 - May 17, 2 climber positions available, Guide: Dan Corn

May 5 - May 25, FULL Guide: Leighan Falley

May 9 - May 29, 2 climber positions available, Guide: Tom Torkelson

May 11 - May 31, 4 climber positions available, NEW: special small person team: 4 climbers, 2 guides, $9,500 USD
May 12 - June 1, FULL, Guide: Mark Postle

May 23 - June 12, 1 climber position available, Guide: Nate Opp  
May 25- June 14, FULL Custom Expedition, Alex Stroud

May 26 - June 15, FULL Guide: Larry Holmgren

May 26 - June 15, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Forest Wagner 
May 27 - June 16, FULL Custom Expedition Guide: Mike Janes

June 2 - June 22,  1 climber position available, Guide: Nick D'Alessio 
June 8 - June 28, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Mark Postle
June 8 - June 28, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Colby Coombs 

June 12 - July 2, FULL Guide: Mike Hamill

June 16 - July 6, FULL Guide: Todd Tumolo

June 22 - July 12, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide, TBA

June 23 - July 13, FULL Custom  Expedition, Guide: Melis Coady

June 24 -July 14, 6 climber positions available, NEW expedition date! Guide: TBA
June 25 - July 15, FULL Guide: Rob Gowler
Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides, $8200

May 17 - June 6, 1 climber position available, Guide: Melis Coady

Denali, Traverse: West Buttress - Wonder Lake, 25 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides, $ contact AMS       
May 26 - June 19, 2 spaces available, Guide: Dustin English

Mt. Hunter, West Ridge,  14 days, 4 climbers: 2 guides, $ custom

May 3 - May 16, FULL Guide: Nate Opp

 

A quick hit on Ben Nevis today with Will. We climbed Gremlins, just next to Thompson's Route. I had a good look at it yesterday and in fact I've been eyeing it up for years now waiting for it to ice up. Today was the day and it was a great climb.

Will led the first pitch with a nice bulge half way up. The second pitch was more sustained but never too full-on, just a little thought provoking with the slightly variable ice. The snow is now solid everywhere and there is some great climbing on offer. Orion Direct and Astral Highway look brilliant and have no cornice or avalanche danger at all now. 

Quick Denali Update

Current Availability as of April 7, 2010

Denali, West Buttress Expeditions:

April 27-May 17: 3 spaces available
May 3- 23: 1 space available
May 10-30: 1 space available
May 17-June 6: FULL
May 24-June 13: FULL
May 31-June 20: FULL
June 2- June 22: FULL
June 7-June 27: FULL
June 14-July 4: FULL
June 21-July 11: 2 spaces available
July 4- July 24: 3 spaces available

Interested in joining AMS for a climb on Denali's West Buttress?

The success of a Denali expedition relies on factors in our control and out of our control. The weather is out of our control. Being physically fit and having the necessary prior experience is in our control. A strong team member is able to a carry a 60 lb. backpack, has winter camped for extended periods, is confident in the use of crampons and an ice axe, and has been on climbs requiring roped glacier travel. A healthy sense of humor and compassion for your fellow climber are also favorable attributes.

To Apply, please complete and return an AMS Application Form and an Expedition Questionnaire: they both can be found on our website: www.climbalaska.org.

We will get back in touch with you to discuss the details of the climb and the nature of high altitude climbing in Alaska.

Cheers,
Caitlin

www.climbalaska.org
tel: 907-733-1016
fax: 907-733-1362

Brilliant weather and great climbing today for Mike and me on Ben Nevis. It's been a while since Mike has been out climbing but with what he's been through it was great to share such a good day with him on his return to climbing.

The clouds did not clear last night so there was no frost and the snow low down was quite soft and wet still. Higher up it was cold enough though and on Thompson's Route the ice was great for climbing. It was dripping a little still but really not much. The last pitch was on perfect snow and ice. On top we soaked up the warm sunshine and admired the view before enjoying the best slide down the Red Burn I've had for a while. A top day.

There were not many other people out and the Orion Face was empty. Big cornices still threaten the climbs from Hadrian's Wall Direct to Point Five Gully which is a shame because it looks like Nemesis is iced up. Dave, Ezra and Arlo had fun and enjoyed the sunshine on NE Buttress.

There are cornices above the cascades still and many of the gullies on Number Three Gully Buttress and Creag Coire na Ciste. They are reasonably stable but you would not want one to fall off while you are underneath due to their size.

Vanishing Gully is complete but thin and probably a bit cruddy. Italian Right Hand was climbed today and looked good. Tower Ridge also had a few ascents as did Gremlins.

Expedtion Availabilty Update

View from the Front seat, AMS is already flying into the Alaska Range

As you can see below, the AMS Denali and Foraker Expeditions positions are filling up quickly, find the application forms on our website  or email us, if you are interested in an Alaska Range expedtion this summer!

JOIN US!

Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides, scheduled, $7,000 USD
 

April 27 - May 17, 2 climber positions available, Guide: Dan Corn

May 5 - May 25, FULL Guide: Leighan Falley

May 9 - May 29, 2 climber positions available, Guide: Tom Torkelson

May 11 - May 31, 4 climber positions available, NEW: special small person team: 4 climbers, 2 guides, $9,500 USD
May 12 - June 1, 1 climber position available, Guide: Mark Postle

May 23 - June 12, 2 climber positions available, Guide: Nate Opp  
May 25- June 14, FULL Custom Expedition, Alex Stroud

May 26 - June 15, FULL Guide: Larry Holmgren

May 26 - June 15, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Forest Wagner 
May 27 - June 16, FULL Custom Expedition Guide: Mike Janes

June 2 - June 22,  1 climber positions available, Guide: Nick D'Alessio 
June 8 - June 28, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Mark Postle
June 8 - June 28, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide: Colby Coombs 

June 12 - July 2, FULL Guide: Mike Hamill

June 16 - July 6, FULL Guide: Todd Tumolo

June 22 - July 12, FULL Custom Expedition, Guide, TBA

June 23 - July 13, FULL Custom  Expedition, Guide: Melis Coady

June 24 -July 14, 6 climber positions available, NEW expedition date! Guide: TBA
June 25 - July 15, FULL Guide: Rob Gowler
Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides, $8200

May 17 - June 6, 1 climber position available, Guide: Melis Coady

Denali, Traverse: West Buttress - Wonder Lake, 25 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides, $ contact AMS       
May 26 - June 19, 2 spaces available, Guide: Dustin English

Mt. Hunter, West Ridge,  14 days, 4 climbers: 2 guides, $ custom

May 3 - May 16, FULL Guide: Nate Opp

AMS Summer Fun on the Kahiltna Glacier: moving cap on the West Buttress

AMS moving with light packs

AMS on the way to high camp on Denali's West Buttress

Blue sky this morning gave way to cloud and light drizzle for much of the day. The wind dropped but it was still a soggy that will be consolidating the soft snow quite nicely. Alex, Yasin and I are ticking off the great ridges of Ben Nevis with one climb each year. We have done Ledge Route and Tower Ridge so today it was Castle Ridge.

The wind yesterday scoured much of the soft snow from the ridge and indeed much of the Castle Coire seemed to be scoured too. The Castle was back to the old snow as well as what I could see of the slope above The Shroud. So the climbing on Castle Ridge was not buried, there was just enough snow to make it a bit footery. The first crux corner had some snow in it but the main crux chimney was mostly just rock. Good fun climbing though and a good introduction to technical mixed climbing for Yasin and Alex.

Dave, Ezra and Arlo climbed Douglas Boulder SW Ridge including the steep first pitch. This is much more mixed than it was before the big thaw a week ago giving entertaining climbing all the way up. Looks like sunshine and colder temperatures tomorrow and Thursday.

Recent AMS Pika Custom Ski

AMS director and guide Colby Coombs recently returned from a custom 4 day ski trip into the Pika glacier.  The snowpack conditions we great and the slopes were straightforward for some excellent early season skiing.

The temperatures for camping this time of year are like 17,000' high camp on Denali.  So if you are coming to the Alaska Range in April, bring all your layers and your winter camping A game.

It goes without saying fun was had by all.