Colby Coombs, Josh Hoeschen, and Mr. Nubo Huang are now established at the 17,200' high camp and if all goes as planned they will try for the summit July 1st. AMS guide, Nick D'Alessio is a part of this expedition and today he helped the team a great deal by carrying extra loads up high today, June 30, he is at the 14,200' camp. I am willing to bet that Nick will be the most popular guide on the mountain tomorrow, July 1. Colby called me tonight and they are all feeling very well.
Nick will be a big help to Rob Gowler and Forest Wagner's team when they roll into the 14,200' camp on July 1st. I am sure he will greet them with his big smile and full pots of water. Hey, it's an arduous job melting pots of snow into water up there! At 14,200', a pot of hot water is similar to a big bag of gold for a mountain guide. :-)
Phil Ershler and Eben Reckord's IMG/AMS team have safely returned to Talkeetna and are now on their way home.
We expect Mike Hamill and Greg Vernovage's team in Talkeetna sometime July 1st.
The weather has been glorious both in Talkeetna and in the whole of the Alaska Range for the past several days. The days ahead look to be super for the climbers as well.
All Best,
Caitlin
Selasa, 30 Juni 2015
Denali West Buttress Team Updates
We just received a call from the June 24 Team led by Josh Hoeschen.
AMS Ronzckowski 6/22, Coady, 6/23 and Hoeschen 6/24 teams are all doing well at 11,20o' camp. Hoeschen's team back carried today, are now resting with plans to carry up to 13,500 tomorrow. AMS guide Coady made a carry to 13,500 today and is also in 11,200' camp. AMS guide Tumolo is still at 14,200 camp. AMS guide Hamill is at 7,800'. Reports from Kahiltna basecamp are that teams are moving slow in the deep snow. Everyone is safe and sound, enjoying the wilderness of Denali.
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| AMS photo of a view of Kahiltna Dome from 11,200'. |
Wounded Warriors Fly
The AMS Wounded Warriors Denali Prep Team landed at the Pika Glacier this afternoon. They spend the day "on hold", which means: spending most of the day in their "action suits" and boots, tying knots, practicing fixed line ascension, eating lunch (in sneakers), and playing the occasional match of ping pong.
Talkeetna local icon and grade school friend of one team member, Arthur Mannix came by to swap stories. I have photos to post if I can overcome a small technical hurdle.
This group of wounded veterans is getting out there to learn and practice the skills they need for attempting Denaliin 2011. Some of these vets are amputees, but you'd never know it around here. Part of this team includes surgeons and a prosthetics engineer who are learning more about the needs of the amputees in order to help facilitate their activities for resuming their lives after becoming wounded, which includes their goal of climbing Denali next year. It is a fantastic project for all involved. This is our second Wounded Warriors group. One of them has got us saying "Go Navy".
No word from AMS Guide Melis Coady yet today. She may call late tonight; they may be on night schedule. Hopefully they got their window to make their attempt!
Tom Bol - National Geographic photographer and instructor for our August 16-21 Photography Workshop - was here today, doing advance prep for the course. I wish I could go along with them; it will be awesome! He's great! Super fun, laid back... any photographers out there, or wannabes?
Here is the description: Denali Photo Workshop
~Blogger Julia
Talkeetna local icon and grade school friend of one team member, Arthur Mannix came by to swap stories. I have photos to post if I can overcome a small technical hurdle.
This group of wounded veterans is getting out there to learn and practice the skills they need for attempting Denaliin 2011. Some of these vets are amputees, but you'd never know it around here. Part of this team includes surgeons and a prosthetics engineer who are learning more about the needs of the amputees in order to help facilitate their activities for resuming their lives after becoming wounded, which includes their goal of climbing Denali next year. It is a fantastic project for all involved. This is our second Wounded Warriors group. One of them has got us saying "Go Navy".
No word from AMS Guide Melis Coady yet today. She may call late tonight; they may be on night schedule. Hopefully they got their window to make their attempt!
Tom Bol - National Geographic photographer and instructor for our August 16-21 Photography Workshop - was here today, doing advance prep for the course. I wish I could go along with them; it will be awesome! He's great! Super fun, laid back... any photographers out there, or wannabes?
Here is the description: Denali Photo Workshop
~Blogger Julia
West Buttress Update
IMG/AMS 6/25 Expedition just checked in. AMS Guide Travis McAlpine said they got in to camp this morning after doing a single carry from 11,000 feet. He said the conditions were good and they will probably rest tomorrow before moving gear up to the 16K ridge.
Travis also reported that Gowler's 6/27 expedition is at 11,000 camp. Also, Dusty sends birthday wishes to Rachel.
Below are some photographs from prior expeditions taken in the last couple of weeks.
Travis also reported that Gowler's 6/27 expedition is at 11,000 camp. Also, Dusty sends birthday wishes to Rachel.
Below are some photographs from prior expeditions taken in the last couple of weeks.
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| 11K camp taken last week by AMS Guide, Mike Janes. |
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| Climbers on Motorcycle Hill with 11,000-foot camp in background. (photo: Mike Janes, 2009) |
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| Climbers taking a break on the 'polo field' 12,700', Mike Janes 2013 |
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| Motorcycle Hill; the route when ascending from the 11,000 foot camp. (photo: Dirk Bellemans, 2013) |
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| Panorama of 14,000-foot camp (photo: Dirk Bellemans, 2013) |
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| 14 K camp with lenticular clouds over Mount Foraker, taken last week by Mike Janes. |
Muldrow Centennial Update
AMS Guide Dustin English just phoned at 10:45 AM. The Muldrow Centennial team reached the base of the great ice fall at 8,100 feet. They left yesterday's camp at 12,000 feet, at midnight and hiked through the night. They said the glacier "froze good" last night. They are going to catch some sleep and get up at midnight tonight; they hope to make it to McGonagall Pass.
Once they reach McGonagall Pass they will need to reorganize their gear for the hike across the tundra. From there it is about a 22 mile hike including two river crossings and then they will be on the Denali Park road. They will catch a bus for the 85 mile ride to the Park's entrance. The weather and river conditions are among the factors in determining their exact return day; but we estimate two to three days.
Once they reach McGonagall Pass they will need to reorganize their gear for the hike across the tundra. From there it is about a 22 mile hike including two river crossings and then they will be on the Denali Park road. They will catch a bus for the 85 mile ride to the Park's entrance. The weather and river conditions are among the factors in determining their exact return day; but we estimate two to three days.
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| The Ice Fall is marked at the bottom of this image. |
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| A photo of the Harper Icefall. Karstens Ridge is the left hand ridge. The North Summit is on the right. Photo: Jeff Pfuleger |
Gowler Report
AMS Guide Rob Gowler called in from 14,200' after his team had a semi-rest day back carrying from 14,200'. His plan was to carry to 16,200' today. Everyone on his team is doing great. AMS Guide Melis Coady and her team is at 17,200' positioned for a summit day.
Standing by, Colby
Senin, 29 Juni 2015
Evening Mountain Update
Mike Hamill's team reached the top today! 2 team members turned back with guide, Greg Vernovage at Archdeacon's Tower at 19,650 feet, that's a great deal of work and a tremendous accomplishment in itself! Well done everyone! As of 8:00 pm they all had returned to the 17,200' high camp. They had a sunny, calm weather, but it was cold up there at 20,320' today. Everyone is well and they plan to be back in Talkeetna on Wednesday.
Rob Gowler called in. He and his team are having a great time and feeling well. Today they had a semi rest day and went back down to 9,800' to pick up their cache. Tonight they are eating "Mountain Pizza", a Denali meal Rob created many years back at AMS, and our teams have been enjoying it for years. It is tasty both in the mountains and at home, maybe if you're nice, he'll give you the recipe. :-) The team is planning on carrying some of their extra food, fuel and gear up toward Windy Corner tomorrow and caching it.
We expect Phil Ershler's team out tomorrow, Tuesday, June 30.
Colby Coombs and crew rested at 14,200' today and plan to make the move up to the high camp at 17,200' tomorrow, they are speedy!
We will get some photos up for you tomorrow.
Best,
Caitlin
Denali West Buttress Team Updates
We just received a call from the June 16 Team led by Todd Tumolo.
Tumolo's team are at 14,200' camp waiting for clearer weather, all are doing well.
They reported that the June 12th team led by Mike Hamill is also at 14,200' after summiting, earning a well deserved rest and renewal by power napping, eating, and drinking hot drinks. Their plan is to continue descending later this evening.
AMS Ronzckowski 6/22, Coady, 6/23 and Hoeschen 6/24 teams are all doing well at 11,000 camp. Reports are saying that Windy Corner is living up to its name and was too windy to move higher. When the conditions calm down, they will continue up to 14,200' camp.
Tumolo's team are at 14,200' camp waiting for clearer weather, all are doing well.
They reported that the June 12th team led by Mike Hamill is also at 14,200' after summiting, earning a well deserved rest and renewal by power napping, eating, and drinking hot drinks. Their plan is to continue descending later this evening.
AMS Ronzckowski 6/22, Coady, 6/23 and Hoeschen 6/24 teams are all doing well at 11,000 camp. Reports are saying that Windy Corner is living up to its name and was too windy to move higher. When the conditions calm down, they will continue up to 14,200' camp.
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| AMS previous crew descending from 14,200' camp, which hopefully Hamill's crew will be doing soon. |
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| AMS guide Adam Fabrikant after a cold summit day: now we know why guides have such beards, to keep the snow and ice off their face. |
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| AMS crew descending around Windy Corner. |
It's Beerthirty at AMS
While the weather on the Mountain is still lovely it has become rainy and cloudy here. This prevented the Wounded Warrior Denali Challenge/Prep Course from flying in today. As a consolation prize they'll be dining on a 28 pound freshly caught king salmon this evening.
What Guides Do on Their Days Off...
AMS Guide Tim Hewette (pointing) is thinking about caribou hunting. AMS Guide Joe McBrayer practices hunting skills on AMS guide Alex Stroud. Tim and Joe are headed to the Brooks Range for an extended hunting trip for caribou. They have their trusty subaru and are ready to go...it's about a 500 mile drive to the happy hunting ground, then they hike and pack raft.
Phil Ershler and team at 14K camp
AMS/IMG Guide Phil Ershler phoned in about his team " We are at 14,000’ – all’s well – weather is good.
The plan is to carry to high camp tomorrow. We are right on schedule.
I will check back in a couple of days."
Denali, West Buttress, 6/25: Gowler, 6/24 Hoeshen
We just received a text from the June 25 Team led by Rob Gowler.
Last night / early this morning they made their carry and cached at 10,000', they are now back at their 7,800' camp. They report it was cold last night and the team moved well and with out a hitch. It is now hot and they are enjoying a well earned nap. They are planning another early (3:00 am) start to move to 11,000' tomorrow.
They saw the June 24 team led by Josh Hoeschen moving to 11,000' camp and they were doing well and enjoying their climb higher.
Last night / early this morning they made their carry and cached at 10,000', they are now back at their 7,800' camp. They report it was cold last night and the team moved well and with out a hitch. It is now hot and they are enjoying a well earned nap. They are planning another early (3:00 am) start to move to 11,000' tomorrow.
They saw the June 24 team led by Josh Hoeschen moving to 11,000' camp and they were doing well and enjoying their climb higher.
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| Pitching the tent properly is constant task and requires good teamwork. Brian Okonek Photo |
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| View from the top of ski hill, the team covered this terrain early this morning! View looking south down the Kahiltna Glacier. |
Denali Prep Course - Military Style
"Denali Challenge" is a group of military men taking a Denali Prep Course for the next 12 days. They are going to an area called, Little Switzerland on the Pika Glacier where they'll learn the skills necessary to travel safely in glaciated areas as well as have a lot of fun!
And this photo was taken before they went to the Mountain Shop...
Precision packing skills shown by David Olson with approval from Butterball...apparently there was some beef jerky in the mix.
The group enjoys an easy lunch, including some really yummy watermelon, before they fly.
And this photo was taken before they went to the Mountain Shop...
Precision packing skills shown by David Olson with approval from Butterball...apparently there was some beef jerky in the mix.
The group enjoys an easy lunch, including some really yummy watermelon, before they fly.
Vernovage 6/25 Denali WB
AMS Guide Greg Vernovage checked in from 11K camp today. They are taking a rest day and plan on move 14,200 tomorrow. The team is all doing well and enjoying fantastic weather.
Janes 6/14 Returns
AMS Guides Mike Janes, Alex Stroud and team returned to Talkeetna today! They are very busy sorting gear and enjoying fresh fruit and orange juice. The team is happy to be back to the summer weather!
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| The clotheslines are full! |
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| Gerti and Iglin |
Monday Update 6/28
Phil Erschler called from 17,200' this morning. They did summit yesterday and are moving down today.
Mike Hamill, Greg Vernovage and their team is going for it today!
Colby's group is resting at 14,200' camp today. They plan to move up tomorrow.
Rob & Forest's team is camped at 11,000' and plans to back-carry today, they'll camp at 11 again tonight.
It's partly cloudy here in the valley, but clear above. A good day for climbing!
~Julia
Mike Hamill, Greg Vernovage and their team is going for it today!
Colby's group is resting at 14,200' camp today. They plan to move up tomorrow.
Rob & Forest's team is camped at 11,000' and plans to back-carry today, they'll camp at 11 again tonight.
It's partly cloudy here in the valley, but clear above. A good day for climbing!
~Julia
Minggu, 28 Juni 2015
Denali, West Buttress 6/25: Gowler
The AMS June 25 Expedition led by Rob Gowler moved to camp one at 7,800' early this morning.
They were in camp by 11:00 AM and are amazed at all the new snow. They of course, enjoyed the beauty of the snow and welcomed it's challenge. They plan to stay on night schedule traveling in the cool temperatures to use less overall energy. This works well until about 11,200' where most of our teams switch back to traveling during the day.
They plan to be eating dinner at 12 midnight tonight (in about an hour) and then leave camp to make a carry of extra food, fuel and gear higher on the mountain, where they will cache it at aprox. 9,800'.
They are all doing well!
They were in camp by 11:00 AM and are amazed at all the new snow. They of course, enjoyed the beauty of the snow and welcomed it's challenge. They plan to stay on night schedule traveling in the cool temperatures to use less overall energy. This works well until about 11,200' where most of our teams switch back to traveling during the day.
They plan to be eating dinner at 12 midnight tonight (in about an hour) and then leave camp to make a carry of extra food, fuel and gear higher on the mountain, where they will cache it at aprox. 9,800'.
They are all doing well!
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| Camp One at 7,800 on the Kahiltna Glacier' |
Denali Update: 6/12: Hamill at the Top!
The AMS June 12 Expedition lead by Mike Hamill has reached the top of North America!
They had a stellar summit day and are doing great. They are on their way back down to high camp and we can't wait to hear more from them later. This team is a living example of "good things come to those who wait"
We are proud of them!
***UPDATE: The team is safely back at high camp and climbing down to 14,200' today. If all goes according to plan they will be back in Talkeetna Monday morning.
They had a stellar summit day and are doing great. They are on their way back down to high camp and we can't wait to hear more from them later. This team is a living example of "good things come to those who wait"
We are proud of them!
***UPDATE: The team is safely back at high camp and climbing down to 14,200' today. If all goes according to plan they will be back in Talkeetna Monday morning.
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| View from the top of Denali, looking SW, expand photo to see 3 climbers ascending the on the final ridge. |
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| Summit of Denali 20,237', photo: Brian Okonek |
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| View of Denali from down town Talkeetna |
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| Climbing up Denali Pass |
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| Final stretch of climbing towards the summit. |
Updates
Mike Hamill just phoned in from 17,200' camp. He said they are doing well, they arrived into camp at 6:30pm and everyone is doing well. Well done guys!
This is what their views were like today on the ridge from 16,200' to 17,200' - this is my favorite part of the climb!
"Edge of the World" Rocks the at 17,200' camp.
Mike reported that Phil and Eben's team did go for the top today with the rest of the folks at high camp. Mike thought they left high camp at about 11 am. They are not back in camp yet, I will let you know when I hear more from them!
An older photo of the 17,200' camp, this photo was taken straight on so it looks really steep, but really it's not, trust me!
Rob and Forest's team moved to the 11,000' foot camp tonight. They plan to get up early and pick up their cache at 9,800' tomorrow then come back and make a big pancake breakfast with real maple syrup! YUM!
This is part of the journey on the upper Kahiltna heading towards the 11,000' camp.
I believe Colby and crew moved to 14,200' today but I have not heard from him directly today.
More later,
Caitlin
This is what their views were like today on the ridge from 16,200' to 17,200' - this is my favorite part of the climb!
"Edge of the World" Rocks the at 17,200' camp.
Mike reported that Phil and Eben's team did go for the top today with the rest of the folks at high camp. Mike thought they left high camp at about 11 am. They are not back in camp yet, I will let you know when I hear more from them!
An older photo of the 17,200' camp, this photo was taken straight on so it looks really steep, but really it's not, trust me!Rob and Forest's team moved to the 11,000' foot camp tonight. They plan to get up early and pick up their cache at 9,800' tomorrow then come back and make a big pancake breakfast with real maple syrup! YUM!
This is part of the journey on the upper Kahiltna heading towards the 11,000' camp.
I believe Colby and crew moved to 14,200' today but I have not heard from him directly today.
More later,
Caitlin
"Pretty Damn Hot Up Here"
The 14,200 foot base camp on Denali becomes an international city during climbing season. That's Mount Hunter (14,500ft) in the background.The Gowler Report:
Rob Gowler just called in from the 14,000 foot camp where the team just arrived. It is a blue bird day up there but hot. Everybody is "super good." They will rest tomorrow and maybe move gear up higher.
Vernovage/D'Alesio's Team Czech along with Phil Ershler's team should be pulling into 14K camp today or tomorrow....perhaps they will phone in for a direct report.
Melis' team left 14K at 8:00 am this morning and should be pulling into high camp right about now.
Down here at 370 foot AMS base camp: the sun is shining and things are drying out. Butterball is lazing in the warm grass and I'm thinking about a cold beer.
Blogger Laura
Centennial Muldrow Team Summits
AMS Guide Dustin English just called from the summit. The team is enjoying the view and their success before heading back to high camp on the Upper Harper Glacier. Congratulations to the team for a job well done! They are all happy and healthy.
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| Both Teams |
Morning Update
Peter Anderson's Team is back in Talkeetna, they are changed into clean clothes and out to breakfast now. It is great to see their smiling faces back in Talkeetna!
No news yet on Phil Ershler and Eben Reckord's group today but here's what we can see from Talkeetna:
Denali is the highest peak on the right and about an hour ago it was clear enough to see the tops of Mt. Foraker and Mt. Hunter, which are further to the left in the photo.
I can't really tell what the winds are doing but it sure looks clear up there!
More later as I hear from them,
Caitlin
No news yet on Phil Ershler and Eben Reckord's group today but here's what we can see from Talkeetna:
Denali is the highest peak on the right and about an hour ago it was clear enough to see the tops of Mt. Foraker and Mt. Hunter, which are further to the left in the photo.I can't really tell what the winds are doing but it sure looks clear up there!
More later as I hear from them,
Caitlin
Sabtu, 27 Juni 2015
Denali, West buttress: 6/25...: Gowler
This evening our June 25 team led by guide Rob Gowler successfully flew into the Alaska Range to begin the climbing portion of their climb! :-) This is a fun team, we are excited follow their progress up the mountain and we wish them the best of luck and fun up there.
They were happy to get their storm days over with in Talkeetna, here's hoping for sunny skies for the the next few weeks for all of the Denali teams!
They were happy to get their storm days over with in Talkeetna, here's hoping for sunny skies for the the next few weeks for all of the Denali teams!
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| Team jump shot! |
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| Justin, Aaron, Michele, Marco, Guides: Rob Gowler, Adam Fabricant, Karina Amortegui, Drew, and Mike. |
Vernovage AMS/IMG Team
AMS/ IMG Guide Greg Vernovage phoned in and all is well.
Last night the team was at the 7,800' camp and tonight they will carry extra food, fuel and equipment higher on the mountain.
They are enjoying traveling during the the cold nights and are having a great time and enjoying some amazing food prepared by their other AMS guide, Travis McAlpine (he's a chef in his past life), lucky them. :-)
Last night the team was at the 7,800' camp and tonight they will carry extra food, fuel and equipment higher on the mountain.
They are enjoying traveling during the the cold nights and are having a great time and enjoying some amazing food prepared by their other AMS guide, Travis McAlpine (he's a chef in his past life), lucky them. :-)
Centennial Muldrow Team Update
The Muldrow Team just phoned in!
This is an exciting day for this team. Today they established themselves at their high camp on the Upper Harper Glacier, at 18,200'.
Tomorrow they will rest or may even make a summit attempt, depending on how everyone is feeling.
The team has done a wonderful job and we are very happy for this very special team!
This is an exciting day for this team. Today they established themselves at their high camp on the Upper Harper Glacier, at 18,200'.
Tomorrow they will rest or may even make a summit attempt, depending on how everyone is feeling.
The team has done a wonderful job and we are very happy for this very special team!
No News is Good News
Butterball waits on the dock while her best friend and AMS office worker, Laura, completes her swim. Butterball did do the run and bike.
Vern (canoe safety) Chris (TAT employee), Laura (AMS), Tim (bartender at the Fairview and owner of TKA Taxi), Leighan (AMS guide), and Ian (AMS owner's nephew) pose for a soggy, cold photo. It's been a quiet, rainy day in Talkeetna. We haven't heard from anybody on the mountain but that is not unusual. In the meantime some of the AMS staff participated in a mini-triathlon today. Air temperature was about 50 degrees and the water temperature wasn't much higher; turn out was less than originally expected. That did not deter five hardy people from doing a three mile run, short swim and three mile bike. Leighan took first in the run but bowed out of the rest due to fighting a cold. Tim took first place overall. There were three doggie competitors: Kayla, Butterball and Rosie. Butterball won the canine division.
Today's Update
I heard from everyone today. LOVE THAT
Peter Anderson and crew are at Basecamp, waiting for a flight out. They arrived into basecamp at about 2 pm this afternoon. They were due to picked up at 5:30 pm , but the winds picked up at basecamp and the air taxi's are waiting for them to calm before going in with any planes. I fully support these safety calls. There are climbing teams waiting to fly into basecamp from Talkeetna too. I am sure their afternoon activities included: cat napping, enjoying all the warm temps and breathing the "thick air" at base camp. They have plenty of supplies in camp to spend the night if the winds don't quiet down tonight.
Mike Hamill's team remains at 14,200'. They are doing well and are resting today. They hope to move up to high camp tomorrow.
Phil Ershler's IMG/AMS team is at 17,200'. The winds were again too high (25 mph) for a summit day, They are spending tonight at high camp and will make a call tomorrow to either go to the summit if the weather is suitable or to come down. They have spent 9 nights waiting for good weather at 14 camp and I am sure they are hoping for good weather tomorrow. They are up there with several other guided teams from other companies, they are all waiting for some clearing or at least some calming of the winds. For what it is worth (mountain weather forecasting is difficult to predict) the forecast looks rather good for them, not stellar and perfect, but it calls for winds less than 20 mph with a thin layer of clouds. Our fingers are crossed for them.
Colby Coombs' team rolled into 11,000' camp at about 6:30 this morning. They traveled in some windy, snowy weather from 7,800' to get there. They left 7,800' camp very early, still on their night schedule, and just after they left camp the winds started to pick up. They rested all day and hope to make upward progression tomorrow, weather depending.
Rob Gowler's team is at 7,800' they made a carry to 9,800' and put their extra food, fuel and equipment in a cache (big snow hole). They are sleeping at 7,800' tonight and if the weather is decent, they will move up to either 9,800' or 11,000' tomorrow. It was whiteout, snowy, windy and cold during on the glacier today for them but they cranked it out, the mountain is putting them right into the thick of it - they will have all of their clothing systems down pat in the next few days. Everyone is doing well.
Cheers,
- Caitlin
Peter Anderson and crew are at Basecamp, waiting for a flight out. They arrived into basecamp at about 2 pm this afternoon. They were due to picked up at 5:30 pm , but the winds picked up at basecamp and the air taxi's are waiting for them to calm before going in with any planes. I fully support these safety calls. There are climbing teams waiting to fly into basecamp from Talkeetna too. I am sure their afternoon activities included: cat napping, enjoying all the warm temps and breathing the "thick air" at base camp. They have plenty of supplies in camp to spend the night if the winds don't quiet down tonight.
Mike Hamill's team remains at 14,200'. They are doing well and are resting today. They hope to move up to high camp tomorrow.
Phil Ershler's IMG/AMS team is at 17,200'. The winds were again too high (25 mph) for a summit day, They are spending tonight at high camp and will make a call tomorrow to either go to the summit if the weather is suitable or to come down. They have spent 9 nights waiting for good weather at 14 camp and I am sure they are hoping for good weather tomorrow. They are up there with several other guided teams from other companies, they are all waiting for some clearing or at least some calming of the winds. For what it is worth (mountain weather forecasting is difficult to predict) the forecast looks rather good for them, not stellar and perfect, but it calls for winds less than 20 mph with a thin layer of clouds. Our fingers are crossed for them.
Colby Coombs' team rolled into 11,000' camp at about 6:30 this morning. They traveled in some windy, snowy weather from 7,800' to get there. They left 7,800' camp very early, still on their night schedule, and just after they left camp the winds started to pick up. They rested all day and hope to make upward progression tomorrow, weather depending.
Rob Gowler's team is at 7,800' they made a carry to 9,800' and put their extra food, fuel and equipment in a cache (big snow hole). They are sleeping at 7,800' tonight and if the weather is decent, they will move up to either 9,800' or 11,000' tomorrow. It was whiteout, snowy, windy and cold during on the glacier today for them but they cranked it out, the mountain is putting them right into the thick of it - they will have all of their clothing systems down pat in the next few days. Everyone is doing well.
Cheers,
- Caitlin
Denali, West Buttress ALL AMS TEAM Updates
It has been a very snowy on Denali this season. Lisa, the flight service basecamp manager, thinks this may be a record breaking snowfall year! Basecamp currently has 40" of snow, and the climbing season will end with more snow than when it began!
All of our teams are doing well, they are waiting to move higher.
The AMS 6/23 Expedition led by guide Melis Coady and our 6/24 Expedition led by guide Josh Hoeschen are at 7,800' (camp 1). Over 3 feet (1 meter) of snow has fallen on them in the last 24 hours. They are doing lots of shoveling! they have plenty of food, fuel and shelter. They are keeping warm and are in good spirits and health. They are waiting for the weather to improve before they make their move (and break a new trail through this deep snow) higher on the mountain.
Noah Ronczkowski 6/22 Expedition are at 11,200' Camp. They received over a meter of snow as well. They are shoveling out their camp and waiting for the weather to improve and snow pack to stabilize. Winds are light with stronger gusts coming from the west. Noah reports that all are in very good moods and are doing well awaiting better climbing conditions.
Todd Tumolo leading the 6/16 Expedition at at 14,200 camp. Yesterday they reported that they had about 3 feet of snow and we are sure they have received more last night as well. They are sitting tight in camp and enjoying their rest days, all are in good spirits!
The June 12 AMS expedition led by Mike Hamill remains at 17,200' they are all feeling strong and awaiting the weather along side several other teams. They are doing well! We have had teams wait up to 11 days at high camp for weather, we wonder if that record will be broken this year...?
Our final Denali West Buttress 6/25 team led by Rob Gowler is experiencing the "Talkeetna Hang". The snow on the mountain is rain, rain and more rain in Talkeetna. The team is keeping busy with classes taught by AMS Guides Rob, Adam Fabrikant and Karina Amortegui.
All of our teams are doing well, they are waiting to move higher.
The AMS 6/23 Expedition led by guide Melis Coady and our 6/24 Expedition led by guide Josh Hoeschen are at 7,800' (camp 1). Over 3 feet (1 meter) of snow has fallen on them in the last 24 hours. They are doing lots of shoveling! they have plenty of food, fuel and shelter. They are keeping warm and are in good spirits and health. They are waiting for the weather to improve before they make their move (and break a new trail through this deep snow) higher on the mountain.
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| View of 7,800' camp |
Noah Ronczkowski 6/22 Expedition are at 11,200' Camp. They received over a meter of snow as well. They are shoveling out their camp and waiting for the weather to improve and snow pack to stabilize. Winds are light with stronger gusts coming from the west. Noah reports that all are in very good moods and are doing well awaiting better climbing conditions.
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| A team leaving 11 K Camp, on a clear day. |
Todd Tumolo leading the 6/16 Expedition at at 14,200 camp. Yesterday they reported that they had about 3 feet of snow and we are sure they have received more last night as well. They are sitting tight in camp and enjoying their rest days, all are in good spirits!
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| View of 14,200 Camp |
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| AMS at 17,200' high camp, Denali pass, a stormy but clearing weather day. |
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| Climbers enjoying the view from the 17,200' High Camp Balcony |
Our final Denali West Buttress 6/25 team led by Rob Gowler is experiencing the "Talkeetna Hang". The snow on the mountain is rain, rain and more rain in Talkeetna. The team is keeping busy with classes taught by AMS Guides Rob, Adam Fabrikant and Karina Amortegui.
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| Reviewing |
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| Karina demostrates duffle packing |
Gowler 6/27 Denali West Buttress
AMS Guides Rob Gowler, Dusty Eroh, Intern Becky King and team are on their way to Kahiltna Base Camp. This is our last expedition of the season. They arrived here organized and ready to climb. They had a noon flight scheduled, which will give them time to review skills and relax before they begin. This team will be traveling on a night schedule.
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| Guide Rob Gowler, Curtis, Greg, Guide Dusty Eroh, Dave, Intern Becky King, Devon, Kera and Kent |
Quote of the Week
Mike a recent Denali team member.
"AMS was by far the best outfit on the Mountain. Not only did they know everyone on the Mountain but other guides would ask them for advice. Denali is an extreme environment and no place to cut corners. AMS sets the bar high and other companies should try and model themselves as such!"
"AMS was by far the best outfit on the Mountain. Not only did they know everyone on the Mountain but other guides would ask them for advice. Denali is an extreme environment and no place to cut corners. AMS sets the bar high and other companies should try and model themselves as such!"
Janes 6/17 Summit
AMS Guide Mike Janes checked in last night from high camp. They had just returned from their summit. The team was tired but happy! They are resting today and weather permitting will start down tonight.
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| Climbers on Summit Ridge |
Jumat, 26 Juni 2015
Rob Gowler and Colby Coombs Teams
Colby just phoned in from the base of "Ski Hill" at 7,800'.
Both he and Rob are settled into camp there and are doing GREAT! The move to the base of "Ski Hill" is often a heavy one, as climbers are starting off with all of their gear in one big push. From here on out they will carry loads up the mountain.
This is what they are looking at today:
An AMS camp at the base of Ski Hill, 7800', Kahiltna Glacier, looking up at " Ski Hill", the route for the next day.
Looking east from the 7,800' Camp. Toward the North East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and the West Face of Denali.
Both he and Rob are settled into camp there and are doing GREAT! The move to the base of "Ski Hill" is often a heavy one, as climbers are starting off with all of their gear in one big push. From here on out they will carry loads up the mountain.
This is what they are looking at today:
An AMS camp at the base of Ski Hill, 7800', Kahiltna Glacier, looking up at " Ski Hill", the route for the next day.
Looking east from the 7,800' Camp. Toward the North East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and the West Face of Denali.
MOUNTAIN PHOTOS FROM JUNE 25
Tom Falley's, super cub photographs return! Thanks Tom for sending these along. If you double click you can easily see the white line in this photo. This is the route that Mike Hamill's team made from 11,000' to 14,200' yesterday, that's some trail breaking!What great looking summit day weather for Peter's team!
This Tom Falley photo shows Windy Corner, 14,200' camp, and the fixed lines up to 16,200', and the routes. If you double click and look closely, you can see climbers rounding windy corner. Since this photo was taken just yesterday, I bet some of them are Mike Hamill's team.